Lunar feast’s fortune telling

Delhi-NCR’s chefs say Chinese legends and cultural symbolism are giving new meaning to their oriental offerings like longevity noodles, prosperity salads, moon cakes and more.
Chinese New Year feast
Chinese New Year feast
Updated on
4 min read

The new year is known by many names and dates around the world depending on ancient calendars. In the Gregorian calendar, it is marked on January 1 and is celebrated most commonly across the globe. The Lunar New Year or the Chinese New Year starts at the end of January and is celebrated with enthusiasm in India given its long cultural links to China and the scattered population of people of Chinese origin in the country. Restaurants get busy with planning special menus.

“Food plays a significant role in Chinese New Year celebrations as it is believed to bring good fortune and happiness for the upcoming year. Certain dishes symbolise specific blessings — such as longevity and wealth. For example, fish represents abundance, dumplings symbolise wealth, and rice cakes are a symbol of progress. The act of gathering around a meal is seen as a time to bond with family and friends,” says chef Vichitra Kumar, executive sous chef at Seven Seas Hotel in Rohini who has crafted the Salmon Katsu, Hokkaido Maguro and Crunchy Enoki Uramaki for the festival at the hotel.

As legends say

The celebrations are steeped in the legend of a mythological figure named Nian. Chef Divij Malhotra, sous chef at House of Ming at Taj Mahal hotel in South Block, talks of how their menu is inspired by it. “Nian, a beast lived at the bottom of the sea and would go ashore only on the last day of the lunar year to eat people and livestock. On that day, people ate early, locked the livestock gate tightly and then fled into the distant mountains to avoid being eaten. One year, the beast was chased away by an old man in a red attire marked by the sound of firecrackers and flares. The old soul was revered by villagers as a celestial being,” Malhotra tells adding, “Taking inspiration from the fire and light used by the old man we have a live flambé. We are preparing Drunken Prawns that we will flambé with Hua Tiao wine (used in Chinese cooking) as well as a cognac flambéed warm chocolate pudding.”

Hokkaido Maguro
Hokkaido Maguro

Chefs say these myths are not directly translated into the plate. “There is no direct interpretation as such, we too have explored the culture and played with the flavours we like,” says chef Aditya Moitra, lead R&D chef, House of Fio and chef Kalyan Rai, head chef, Kaméi, at the Eldeco Centre, Saket. In addition to dishes, their menu uses typical Chinese ingredients — like green pepper, Sichuan chilli, mochi and chrysanthemum flowers which are in season at this time of the year — that are associated with the Lantern Festival which marks the final day of the Chinese New Year celebrations.

Animal of the year

According to Chinese traditions, each year is dedicated to one of the 12 zodiac animals. Last year was the year of the dragon; 2025 is the year of the snake. In Chinese culture, the latter is associated with intelligence, strength, elegance, wisdom and transformation. At the House of Ming, the presentation of dishes symbolically refers to the snake’s sinuous form. “Our menu has Prawn Cheung Fun where a silken ribbon of rice noodles drapes itself over the plate mirroring the snake’s sinuous dance. The Assorted Mushroom Cheung Fun has earthy flavours symbolic of the animal’s profound connection to the earth. The long and unbroken Longevity Noodles depict how the snake is always poised for a graceful and elegant movement. ” At Pride Plaza Hotel in Aerocity, with an infusion of a “touch of spice and boldness, we’ve crafted dishes that resonate with the Indian palate while preserving their authenticity. It allows us to celebrate the best of both culinary traditions, creating an experience that feels both familiar and adventurous”, says Kailash Payal, the hotel’s oriental sous chef.

Sichuan Chilly Whole Red Snapper
Sichuan Chilly Whole Red Snapper

Food and symbolism

Certain food items hold deep symbolic meanings. “Dumplings (jiaozi) are shaped like ancient gold ingots, symbolising wealth and prosperity in the year ahead. Fish, particularly red snapper, is a powerful symbol of good fortune and abundance,” says chef Gagandeep Singh Sawhney, executive chef at Shangri-La Eros in Connaught Place. Taking a cue from that, he has prepared Prawn Dumplings, Cumin Chicken Floss, Crispy Jumbo Lotus and Bean Thread Noodles to welcome the festival.

Aashita Relan, founder of Royal China in Chanakyapuri, has a limited-edition menu in tune with the symbolic meaning of each delicacy. “Dimsums resemble ancient Chinese gold ingots. Spring Rolls resemble gold bars and are eaten for wealth. Longevity Noodles represent long life and good health and Moon Cakes symbolise unity and togetherness making them an essential part of family celebrations.”

Kamei’s Snow Mooncakes tined with red colour is a nod to the vibrant red associated with Chinese New Year, as is its classic Yu Sheng Salad, also known as a Prosperity Salad Toss, a dish to be had with friends and family. Kamei plates this salad with salmon (for non-vegetarians) and avocado (for vegetarians) as the hero ingredient to symbolise abundance, good fortune, and a long life. “Traditionally this salad is tossed together with family and friends, who say auspicious phrases and wish each other well,” say its chefs.

Sweet and citrusy fruits such as mandarin, grapes, cherries, persimmons, pineapple, pomegranate, and pomelo are also considered lucky. They are eaten around this time with auspicious meanings. Malhotra has used mandarin in the making of delights like Domino Mousse, and Hangzhou Crabmeat (orange stuffed with crab). “In Chinese culture, the mandarin is linked with good luck and prosperity. This fruit has long been exchanged as a gift during Lunar New Year, symbolising wishes for a fruitful year,” he says, adding that the festival is an opportunity to explore “lesser known” Chinese traditions.

(Inputs Paramita Ghosh)

Related Stories

No stories found.

X
The New Indian Express
www.newindianexpress.com