Just 150 metres from the cremation ground, temple bells chime softly. Amid the scent of marigold and jasmine—threaded into gajras and garlands—oars gently slice through the Yamuna’s current. This is Nigam Bodh Ghat: an unlikely boating destination in the heart of Delhi, thriving quietly even as the rest of the city wakes to its daily chaos.
Unlike the artificial lakes of the capital—Naini Lake in Model Town or Bhalswa Lake in Jahangirpuri—this stretch of the Yamuna offers a unique experience. Here, no towering buildings obstruct the horizon, no honking cars shatter the stillness. Only the rhythmic sounds of oars, flocks of migratory birds, and the river breathing its ancient rhythm remain.
Boating since half a century
“I have been rowing a boat for the past 15 years now, and there are boys older than me who used to row boats some 40 years ago. To the best of my knowledge, boating at this stretch started 50 years ago,” said Kamal Yadav, whose name shines proudly on a signboard reading “Welcome to the Nigam Bodh Boating Club.”
Kamal and others like him earn their year’s worth of livelihood mostly during the winter months. The migratory birds—thousands of them—descend in graceful waves, attracting early risers, photographers, couples, and families who arrive armed with atta balls and packets of namkeen specially sold here for the migratory guests.
A pack of especially made namkeen costs anywhere between Rs 10 and Rs 30, depending on the quantity.
The boat legacy
Among the most prominent figures at the ghat is 70-year-old Sarla—known locally as ‘Naav vali aunty.’ Her name too appears on the advertising board. Draped in a simple cotton saree, Sarla watches over 12 boats she owns with pride. Originally from Mathura, she came to city at the age of 13. “My father-in-law used to take care of the boats. Then my husband did. Now that he is no more, I manage the business. This is our livelihood,” she said.
Sarla reminisced about better times. “The water quality was much better 15 years ago. During the festivals like Diwali and Dussehra, we had many tourists and locals visiting. Things have slowed down, but winters still bring us visitors—from Japan, America, China—and vloggers who come here for photoshoots. That’s when we earn the most.”
She added, “We have had days when tourists arrived at 4 a.m. in January’s cold. We had to light bonfires to make boating possible. Tell me, where else in Delhi will you get that kind of experience?”
The price of peace
The cost of a boat ride depends on the experience. Shared rides are priced at Rs 100 per person, while a private ride for two costs up to Rs 500.
For those celebrating special occasions—birthdays, proposals, or pre-wedding shoots—rates can go as high as Rs 1,500–2,000. “But you have to book early,” warned Kamal. Though froth and pollution darken the river’s waters today, the magic hasn’t faded. “It’s still better than anywhere else,” said Sarla. “You don’t hear traffic here. Just birds, oars, and temple bells.”
When asked about the pollution, she said, “No, the water is still pure. We are the ones who are dirty and polluting it. Yeh to hamari Maa Yamuna hai.”
Troubled waters
Despite the seasonal boom, the river’s deteriorating condition remains a source of anguish. “It breaks our hearts,” said Mohan, another boatman. “Every year, the water gets worse. The froth, the smell—it’s not what it used to be.”
Still, there’s hope. “We often see college students come here for clean-up drives. They want to protect this place. That gives us hope,” Mohan further said.
Delhi has many boating venues, but none as organically evolved as this. Purana Qila, for example, once offered stiff competition. Recreational boating was launched there in 1991 by the Delhi Tourism Department but discontinued in 2016 when the lake dried up due to negligence. Boating was resumed only a week ago.
A hybrid model of community and commerce
Unlike government-run facilities, boating at Nigam Bodh Ghat follows a hybrid system—part private, part community-owned. The Yadav Boating Club operates most services here, with both shikara-style and motor boats. Government boats are also available but need advance booking for private use.
Ticketing remains informal yet affordable—around Rs 350 for an hour-long ride.
The nearest metro station, Kashmere Gate, is just a 10-minute auto ride away. But once you reach the ghat, it feels like stepping into another time. Wooden benches line the shore. Children scatter bird feed into the water or take daring dives into the river. Elderly couples sit quietly, watching the boats drift under the morning mist.
“This is not just a boating ghat,” said Mohan. “It has become a centre for artists, bird photographers, and spiritual seekers. Some people come just to sit and listen to the silence. In all these years, we’ve seen wedding shoots, seagulls eating namkeen from our hands, and more.”
A sanctuary few know exists
Despite its beauty, many Delhiites remain unaware of this riverside sanctuary. “Customers often say they’ve never seen anything like this in Delhi,” shared Sarla. “Most people only know the dirty, dark image of the Yamuna. But this ghat—this is its beautiful side.”
She added, “Boats are available at Wazirabad and Okhla too, but people rarely go there.” Residents who have lived at the ghat for generations say Nigam Bodh Ghat is far more than just a cremation site. “Yeh jagah aisi hai jahan Dilli sheher saans le sakta hai…” said a local, who owns a small house near the riverbank.
Where the river still sings
And so, our journey along the Yamuna comes to a close—a journey that began in sludge and legal files, wandered through broken ghats and fading traditions, and ends here. Amid fog and froth, the Yamuna River still sings for those who listen.