Kosa silk’s new destination in Delhi

Chief artisan of Dewangan community, Amritlal with actor Yami Gautam
Chief artisan of Dewangan community, Amritlal with actor Yami Gautam
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For ages, the Dewangan community of Chhattisgarh has been weaving the Kosa silk sarees. Drawn from the word ‘Deva’, meaning God, and 'Angan', meaning courtyard or sacred space, the community is regarded as custodians of the craft, and have traditionally been entrusted with weaving garments for deities. Chief artisan of the community, Amritlal, said that they used to weave the first sarees for the goddess Parmeshwari.

Through Kosala Livelihood and Social Foundation — a social enterprise supported by Hindalco Industries Ltd. of the Aditya Birla Group — over 700 artisans are not just earning again, but reclaiming pride in their craft. It opened its flagship retail store, Kosala, in Greater Kailash I recently; actor Yami Gautam, draped in a Kosa silk saree, was the chief guest.

Rajashree Birla, chairperson of the Aditya Birla Centre for Community Initiatives and Rural Development, was present at the launch. “This store serves as a bridge between rural skill and global appreciation," she said.

Referring to her connection with art, the actor said, "We have a vast nation, capable of creating such great indigenous craft. It's about time that we preserve and present our culture globally."

As the globe moved towards fast fashion, retail therapy, and online shopping, the brand intends to maintain a stable demand-supply chain. A saree that would otherwise be produced in seconds takes the weavers 15 days to shape it.

Artisans weaving a thread
Artisans weaving a thread

Beyond the loom, Kosala strengthened the entire value chain. As many as 130 artisans found employment across pre-loom and post-loom processes, reinforcing integration within the ecosystem and ensuring that every stage of production generated meaningful livelihoods. From the silkworm cocoons to the colours used to dye the fabric, Kosala has been providing it to the artisans.

Amritlal said that they had almost started to believe that the craft would be lost with their generation, but now they have hope. "My kids are employed in other private industries, but I want them to learn and continue the legacy. Many have left their jobs to preserve the tradition after Kosala," he said.

Men and women maintain the balance of the craft. Amritlal said that he wouldn't be able to do anything had his wife not been there engaging equally in the craft. The yarn is an irreplaceable part of their lives. For them it's a cultural memory; right from early childhood they have integrated the craft and the tools as an essential part of their lives. For them, silk is not simply a livelihood but a lineage.

Chhattisgarh is one of the few regions in India that preserves the entire handloom process for Kosa silk—from farming the cocoons to spinning the thread and weaving the fine silk yarn.

Neeta Shah, CEO of Kosala, said that the weavers had stopped trying traditional designs. They dug through the past, collected books, manuscripts and every article that connected history to Kosa silk garments. As a result, the authenticity was restored bit by bit while positioning heritage textiles within a sustainable luxury framework and delivering measurable economic outcomes at the grassroots level.

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