India’s royal courts were not only centres of power, architecture, and culture — they were also hubs of botanical-beauty knowledge. Queens, princesses, and royal courtesans took care of their skin using precious herbs, flowers, and oils, sourced from their regions. These traditions varied across states yet shared a reverence for nature. Here is a journey through the ancient royal skincare wisdom of India:
Rajasthan: Saffron, rose and sandalwood
The queens of Rajputana endured harsh desert climates, so their beauty routines focused on hydration and cooling.
Saffron (Kesar) was soaked in raw milk or camel milk and applied as a complexion enhancer. Its natural carotenoids and antioxidants brightened dull skin.
Rosa damascena (Desi Gulab) grew abundantly around Udaipur and Kishangarh, and rose water distilled by hand, cooled sun-stressed skin.
Red Sandalwood (Rakta Chandan) was ground and mixed with buttermilk or aloe to soothe inflammation.
Bath perfumes made of attar and desert herbs completed their luxurious routines.
Kashmir: Almond oil, saffron and honey
Kashmiri royalty sourced beauty from their fertile valleys.
Kashmiri almond oil was massaged into the face to strengthen skin with Vitamin E and promote a youthful glow.
Saffron (grown in Pampore) mixed with raw honey created a gentle antiseptic pack to keep skin clear.
Walnut shell powder was used as the earliest form of scrub to remove dead skin from cold winters.
This gave Kashmiri women a delicate appearance described in many court poems.
Awadh and Mughal India (Delhi, Agra, Lucknow): Ubtaan, jasmine and silver
The Mughal and Awadhi courts were famed for refinement and indulgence.
Ubtaan, a paste of chickpea flour, turmeric, sandalwood and milk cream, was the centrepiece of bridal and daily skincare.
Jasmine oil perfumed the hair and softened the facial skin.
Silver varq and pearl ash were ground into cooling creams believed to clarify complexion and reduce heat.
Court hakims documented recipes, many of which evolved into the modern Unani skincare tradition.
Kerala: Kumkumadi, coconut and turmeric
The queens of Travancore and Cochin embraced Ayurvedic beauty.
Kumkumadi Tailam — a potent elixir of saffron, sandal, manjistha and vetiver — was used nightly for pigmentation and youthful glow.
Coconut milk and oil were massaged for nourishment and sun protection in the tropical climate.
Wild turmeric (Kasthuri Manjal) prevented acne and brightened complexion without staining.
Baths infused with vetiver roots and neem leaves kept skin fresh and fragrant.
Mysore and Hyderabad: Milk cream, sandal and herbs
The southern royals prized smooth, even-toned skin.
Mysore sandalwood, among the world’s finest, was treasured for brightening skin and soothing heat rashes.
Fresh malai (milk cream) was applied as a natural moisturizer rich in lactic acid.
Herbal steam baths with basil, neem and lemongrass detoxified skin and imparted a natural perfume.
In the Nizam courts, ittar of roses and jasmine added softness to the skin and hair.
A legacy that lives on
From saffron-drenched milk baths to sandalwood pastes and herbal elixirs, India’s royal women understood skin science long before modern cosmetics. Their philosophy — cooling the skin, protecting against the climate, reducing inflammation, and enhancing the natural glow — remains alive in Ayurveda, Unani, and modern clean beauty brands today.
These ancient ingredients beautified and honoured nature, making Indian royal skincare one of the world’s most sustainable cosmetic legacies.