My visit to Indonesia was marked by insights into their cultural heritage. While Bali is the most popular destination with tourists, Yogyakarta is chosen only by a few. Especially those who are into art and culture enjoy and appreciate the rich architectural and cultural wealth the country offers. We Indians further comprehend the similarities between India and Indonesia and relate better.
While in Yogyakarta I happened to visit the largest Hindu temple in Southeast Asia, the beautiful and graceful temple complex of Prambanan which is a magnificent spectacle and an icon of Indonesia’s cultural heritage. Located not far from the Buddhist Borobudur temple, the proximity of the two temples proves that in Java, Buddhism and Hinduism lived peacefully next to one another. It is not a thing of the past. Even now Hinduism co-exists peacefully with Islam and Christianity in Indonesia. In fact, my guide Kabul, being a Muslim, has named his sons Krishna and Gandhi, both Hindu names.
Prambanan is the masterpiece of the Hindu culture of the tenth century. Soaring up to 47 meters, with incomparable architecture, this temple complex was built in the tenth century during the reigns of two kings namely Rakai Pikatan and Rakai Balitung, proclaiming the Hindu triumph in Java Island. Located 17 kilometres from the city centre, it is set in a beautiful park. As I entered the premises, I was delighted to see jasmine bushes in full bloom.
There is a Javanese legend about this temple. As the story goes, there was a man named Bandung Bondowoso who loved Roro Jonggrang. To refuse his love, Jonggrang asked Bondowoso to make her a temple with 1,000 statues within one night. Bondowoso took the help of genies to accomplish this almost impossible task. The request was nearly fulfilled when Jonggrang asked the villagers to pound rice and to set a fire in order to make it look like the day break. Thus cheated, Bondowoso who only completed 999 statues cursed Jonggrang to be the thousandth statue.
Prambanan temple has three main temples in the primary yard, dedicated to the trinity, namely Vishnu, Brahma, and Shiva. Facing east, each main temple has an accompanying temple facing to the west, namely Nandi for Shiva, Hamsa for Brahma, and Garuda for Vishnu. Besides, there are two flank temples, four kelir temples and four corner temples. In the second area, there are 224 temples.
As I entered Shiva temple, which is the highest temple and is located in the middle, there were four rooms. The main shrine had a Shiva statue, while the other three rooms had the statues of Durga (Shiva’s wife), Agastya (Shiva’s teacher), and Ganesha (Shiva’s son). Durga’s statue is said to be that of Roro Jonggrang in the above legend. To the north of Shiva temple was Vishnu temple and to it south was that of Brahma.
The temples collapsed due to earthquake, volcanic eruption and a shift of political power in the early 11th century, and they were rediscovered in the 17th century. These compounds have never been displaced or changed. Restoration works have been conducted since 1918, both in original traditional method of interlocking stone and modern methods using concrete to strengthen the temple structure, taking great care to retain the authenticity of the structures.
Fact File
Getting there: Air Asia, Air India and Singapore Airlines have good connectivity and reasonable fares. Try to avoid Malaysia Airlines as their flights are often badly delayed with irresponsible and discourteous staff being insensitive to passengers’ needs in times of crisis.
Visa: Free visa on arrival
Currency: 1 Indian Rupee = 207.45 Indonesian Rupiah
Stay: Sheraton Yogyakarta Resort and Spa is an absolutely delightful place.
Weather: Mostly hot and humid any time of the year. Carry light cottons and sun screen.
Shopping: Batik, puppets, wood carvings and Rattan goods.
This only shows how much Indonesians care to preserve their culture and heritage.
(The author is a documentary filmmaker and travel writer who blogs at www.vijayaprataptravelandbeyond.com)