HYDERABAD: Jhal Muri (spicy puffed rice), New Market Mutton Chop, Kaata Nimki (savouries) and Shyambajarer Murgir Kosha (chicken in minimal gravy) – all the trappings to evoke Bangaliaana (feeling of being Bengali) came together at the ongoing Bengali Food Festival at Cayenne in Mercure Hotel. Bringing together a largely traditional fare and a handful of fusion dishes, the menu struck a fine balance between the old and new.
After starters like phuchka (pani puri) and kathi roll, I started with the Rajnandini Polao. It’s a typical sweetish Bengali Polao served on occasions like weddings. Though the rice was a tad underdone, the flavour was perfect with accents of Garam Masala. Next came the Chhanar Dalna, which is a paneer dish made from cottage cheese made at home. The mellow tomato gravy brought out the taste of the chhana beautifully and went well with the polao.
The Masoor Dal tadka was very subtly spiced, and so was the vegetable kofta. The Aloo Posto (potato in poppy seed paste) was nicely done, with the posto throwing the taste buds into a tizzy. The egg preparation in an onion-based gravy, redolent with the fragrance of coriander, brought back memories of winter nights and bonfires. The Shyambajarer Murgi Kosha was mellow and spicy, all at the same time, and so was the Kochi Pathar Jhol (lamb curry), which had a more pronounced flavour of tomato. But what really stole my heart was the humble Bengali chorchori (a hotch potch of vegetables).
These vegetarian dishes are difficult to cook and it takes a pro to bring out the flavours of the individual vegetables. Every Bengali worth her/his salt knows that the hero in chorchori is kalo jeera (kalonji), and the good folks here too knew that. The carrot, radish and kalonji blended beautifully and warmed the cockles of my heart. Another superstar dish was the Shorshe Bhetki. It is Bhetki fish that was first sautéed in mustard paste and then released in a tomato gravy.
The pungent taste of the mustard and the tanginess of the tomato co-existed in a happy marriage, without invading each other’s space. Among the fusion dishes, I liked the Basa fish and pineapple salad. It was an unusual combo, but it worked. Though not strictly Bengali, the Mutton Shorba was one of the best dishes I have tasted in recent times.
The dessert section had sweets including Chhana Toast, Kalakand, Misti Doi, Rajbhog and Cham Cham. The festival is on till October 14. It starts 7 pm onwards and costs Rs 1,199 excluding taxes