HYDERABAD: As kids, we studied history in school (whether we liked it or not: though I loved colouring the maps and marking territories of various rulers). In higher classes, European history too was included where Napoleon Bonaparte featured prominently; a great leader and a military genius, he won many battles to expand France; his use of strategic warfare throughout many battles allowed him to be seen as a hero not only in France but all of Europe. Napoleon Bonaparte commanded admiration and prompted immense curiosity as to how a diminutive fighter could become a military giant.
Les Invalides
So during my first visit to Paris, after the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre, the third on my list was ‘Les Invalides’, a magnificent building complex in the heart of Paris, with stunning monuments. It houses Napoleon’s tomb and a wonderful museum of medieval armour and weapons and several centuries of military history. Commissioned in 1670 by Louis XIV in order to provide accommodation and hospital care for wounded soldiers, Les Invalides is one the most prestigious monuments in Paris. The complex operated as a hospital and retirement home for French war veterans up until the early 20th century. It extends over 86,100 square feet and is made up of a museum and two churches with some 5,00,000 objects. This makes it the largest museum of military history in France, and one of the leading ones in the world.
Napoleon Bonaparte: A Brief history
Born in 1769, Napoleon Bonaparte attended military school in Paris. A brigadier general at 23, three years later he won battles in northern Italy and fought the Ottoman Turks in Egypt. Within a couple of years, he became the leader of the French Republic, wrote a new constitution, enacted new civil laws for France, and in 1804, Napoleon was crowned the Emperor in Notre Dame Cathedral, and his wife Josephine the Empress. He continued to fight wars until France controlled more than half of Europe. But when he led a massive army into Russia, he lost most of the army; after more defeats, Napoleon abdicated as emperor in 1814. A year later, Napoleon gathered a new army, marched to Paris, and led France again to a final battle, and was defeated at Waterloo in 1815. He was exiled to a remote island St. Helena and died there in 1821. Till 1840 he remained buried there in a valley, beneath the shade of weeping willows.
Napoleon’s Tomb – Dome des Invalides
In 1840, Napoleon was re-buried in Paris, here at Domes des Invalides. Inspired by St Peter’s Basilica in Rome, and designed by the architect Visconti, the Dôme des Invalides is one of the triumphs of French Baroque architecture. The excavation and erection of the crypt, that heavily modified the interior of the domed church, took twenty years to complete: Napoleon was laid to his final rest here in 1861, forty years after his death. The majestic red sarcophagus sits high up, surrounded by twelve figures of Victory, a reminder of Napoleon’s successful conquests. It is said that the monumental red sarcophagus was transported by barge up the Seine, and then put on a golden coach with twelve white horses. As the coach passed through the streets of Paris, people in the crowd shouted “Vive la Grande Armee.”
A bright light enters through the windows of the dome and plays magnificently across the ornate décor highlighting three ornamental mosaics – a crown, an eagle, and a medallion with his portrait and words – “Napoleon Emperor des Francais.” Also buried in the Dome Church are Napoleon’s son as well as his brothers and a number of other French military heroes.
Napoleon’s memorabilia
In the second floor galleries “From Louis XIV to Napoleon III” are a complete overview of his military campaigns, including Napoleon’s personal belongings: his swords, including the sword he carried at the battle of Austerlitz, and a curved Egyptian Saber of the Pyramids, plus his hunting rifle and flintlock pistols. Also, Napoleon’s felt hat, decorated with a tricolour, and a blue coat with gold embroidery.
Napoleon created his own coat of arms with eagle, crown, and bees, which were carried by his regiments in the battles. On the battlefield, Napoleon dressed simply and slept on a camp bed. One exhibit recreates his camp equipment, with a tent, bed (it looked tiny, like that of a child), portable writing desk, and clothing. Napoleon wrote dozens of letters every day, even in the midst of battle. An essential part of Napoleon’s army was the cavalry; Napoleon kept a large stable of horses and is often portrayed on horseback. One of Napoleon’s horses, Le Vizir, is in the museum with his emblem Napoleon’s N and crown. On the floor above are miniature cannons, tin soldiers, and dioramas of seven scenes from Napoleon’s life: Battle at Arcole, Napoleon in Egypt, coronation in 1804, at Malmaison with Josephine, the birth of his son, freezing in Moscow, in exile on St. Helena.
A few years later, when I came across a statue of Napoleon in Germany (Erfurt), I took a picture with him, putting my hand around his shoulder lovingly, as though he was my kid brother!
(The author is a documentary filmmaker and travel writer; she blogs at vijayaprataptravelandbeyond.com)