HYDERABAD: We are ushered in and seated on the floor with bright red tablecloths covering the “chowkis” (low tables). On the 15th floor of a tower in the beautiful gated community, the soft breeze wafts in. It doesn’t feel like summer: it never does in Bangalore anyway.
There are bolsters to lean on. Pashto music is playing in the background. From behind the green and cream fancy curtain, I can see three women bustling in the kitchen. Mild aromas fill the place. Red soft drinks are offered that merge into the bright red of the tablecloths. The scene is set in “Ghiza Kitchen” in Bangalore, which I am visiting for the second time, almost after a year.
Azra, the super home chef cum hostess appears, welcoming me with the same warm smile that she wears even in the midst of heavy-duty hosting. Handling a six-course meal to a dozen guests for a sit-down dinner is no joke! She has to be on her toes to send the dishes one after the other, each plated exclusively for each guest. Her three assistants may make her job slightly lighter but her hawk eyes have to be on the alert all the time, for even a small detail can’t be missed. Maybe that is the reason why this home dining experience in Bangalore has garnered so much popularity in the last one year.
Himayath Khan, the host appears later: fresh from Zuhr (Dhuhr) prayers clad in a crisp Pathani suit. We have just finished the welcome drink, “Pakhair Raghlay”, the traditional beverage served at homes and weddings in Afghanistan with a dash of Roohafza to add colour (that’s the red drink). The sweetness in it prepares the stomach and palette for the heavy lunch that is to follow.
As he serves the first course, Himayath gives a brief introduction of his antecedents. A third-generation Pathan from Afghanistan, his great-grandfather travelled all the way to Bangalore to trade horses. Born and brought up in Bangalore, he lovingly calls Kannada his mother tongue: his films too are made in Kannada. His wife Azra, whom he met on Shaadi.com hails from Karachi in Pakistan. Raised in a large family with seven brothers and four sisters, she had seen food being cooked at home in large quantities, using traditional methods and recipes.
Growing up amongst aunts and elder ladies, she had collected a vast repertoire of authentic recipes over a period of time. Inspired by “Bohri Kitchen” of Mumbai and encouraged by friends who always rave about Azra’s food, the couple started their “Ghiza Kitchen” last March in Bangalore. Soon it caught foodies’ attention by word of mouth and has become the hottest place to be dining in Bangalore on Sundays. But to do justice to the lavish meal, one should start fasting from Saturday itself!
Though Himayath and Azra call “Ghiza”, an experimental house food experience which serves to friends and friends of friends, it is much more than that. It’s like visiting long lost friends or meeting with a dear relative and re-establishing connection over a lovely meal. Here are some gems from the exotic menu:
Seekh Boti – Street food, sold famously at Burns Road in Karachi, it is a chicken lover’s delight.
Khosh Mazaa Shaami – A Pakistani minced mutton cutlet, famous for its softness added with an age-old combination of secret herbs from Azra’s home.
Dum Afghan – An authentic Afghani dish, slow-cooked overnight till the meat is almost fall-off-the-bone tender, served with rice of Kabuli Pilaf and Brea’s Delhi kulcha.
Charsi Tikka – Marinated overnight before it is pan-grilled and smothered with its signature malai sauce; it is served with Puri Paranthas.
Nalli Nihari – Again, slow-cooked mutton with bones of the marrow, this is an authentic Karachi take of the Nalli Nihari which also finds mention in Mughlai cuisine.
Lab-e-Janan – This sweet ending is a mix of fresh seasonal fruits, vermicelli, milk, and looks pretty with lovely colour combinations besides tasting simply fabulous!
To digest this splendid heavy meal, you have the Arabi Kahwa served with pieces of jaggery: you should place the jaggery beneath your tongue and let it slowly melt. Even as you prepare to take leave, you may plan the next visit/meal, this time along with your family or close friends as no pleasure is complete without sharing it with one’s loved ones.
I smiled to myself thinking of “Klook”, the booking platform that helped me discover this wonderful gastronomic experience; giving fast and convenient access to popular attractions, experiences and services for travellers like me to discover the sounds, colours, and even tastes of places around the world!
(The author is a documentary filmmaker and travel writer; she blogs at vijayaprataptravelandbeyond.com)