HYDERABAD: In just two days Ramzan will be over and ushering in Eid-ul-Fitr. And while battling the hardships of lockdown, the denizens in the city are still going on with the preparation of the iftar and cool drinks with the limited resources and unavailability of certain items. Hyderabad is known for its culinary history especially during the Holy Month which would see local fruit drinks finding their way to the dastarkhwaan set for breaking the fast after sunset.
Says the doyen of Hyderabadi food Nawab Mehboob Alam Khan, “False ka sherbet is the queen of all sherbets and has always been part of iftars during summers.” He fondly recommends Aab Shola, which is nothing but a sherbet prepared from raw mangoes. He shares, “Hot ashes are used to soften the raw mangoes, its pulp separated, mixed with water and then strained through a muslin cloth brings out the best flavour. The fruits are put inside ashes during the night and taken away in the morning for a smoky flavour.” Since Hyderabad is also known for its royal delights.
Badaam ka sharbet has always been a favourite in several households. He adds,”Sil patte pe badaam ghaste hain and then it is added to chilled milk. Some people make it into a paste and then add to cardamom-flavoured milk.” Nawab Faiz Khan of Paigah family also is an aficionado of Falsa Sherbet and Aab Shola along with other sherbets. He shares, “Khas Sherbet has always been part of iftars and summer dawaats. This drink has its roots in the Ottoman Empire and the Mughal Sultanate.” Other than these fruity delights, he mentions sherbets made from doodh.
“These milk concoctions used to be mixed with dry fruits and saffron. The preparation used to be stored in new clay pots especially surahis known for the extra cold taaseer (effect). The concept of ice-cold drinks is quite old, it’s not a gift of the refrigerator.” Seed-based refreshments have also been part of the table. Says Begum Razia Baig, Chairperson of Qadir Ali Baig Theatre Foundation, “Baalanga’ was a popular drink, made of soaked chia seeds mixed with powdered misri during Ramzan as much as it was a popular Hyderabadi summer drink in old Hyderabadi homes.”
— Saima Afreen saima@newindianexpress @Sfreen