Living the game

From being a sport of the royals to heading towards oblivion, polo has seen a lot of ups and downs in Hyderabad. Here are some polo players in the city who are trying to revive the regal sport.
The Hyderabad Polo and Riding Club has six members, who pay their annual maintenance which goes for maintaining horses. (Photo | Express)
The Hyderabad Polo and Riding Club has six members, who pay their annual maintenance which goes for maintaining horses. (Photo | Express)

HYDERABAD:  Polo is known as the sport of the kings. Rulers of the Deccan, once the richest in the world, played the sport with no exception. Back then, the twin cities were dotted with as many as 17 bustling polo grounds. Now, years after being on the back burner and the grounds falling prey to urbanisation, except for the Bison Polo Ground which remains closed, the sport is making a comeback in Hyderabad.   

A few new polo and equestrian academies have come up on the outskirts of the city, which not only train enthusiasts but also aim at reviving the culture in Hyderabad. A month ago, equestrian and polo player Ajitesh Singh Rathode, from the family of Thakur Dalpat Singh-I (1622), established the Telangana Polo Ranch at Shankarpally. According to Ajitesh, who comes from a family of rulers of Rohet near Jodhpur in Rajasthan, Hyderabad will regrow as the polo hub. “I want to reestablish the polo culture in the South. The sport is loved in the North, but here it is a different story altogether because of the legacy involved,” says the director of the Telangana Polo Ranch. 

Speaking of legacy, Najaf Ali Khan, the grandson of seventh Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan, talks of some prominent people who played the sport in the city. “Mirza Mehmood Ali Baig, the father of late theatre doyen Qadir Ali Baig, was a polo champion who represented the city and played in Valiyad Bahadur’s team. In the early 90s, it was one of the top teams globally. He owned a stud farm near present-day Saroornagar,” he says. 

Today, Hyderabad has two clubs that are doing well but have indoor polo arenas. Ajitesh, however, bought a 300 x 150-yard polo ground. “The game is traditionally played in the open, on a field. Polo continues to be one of the most expensive sports in the world. That’s why back then, it was played only by the royals and later, some top-ranking Army officers took to the sport. But things have changed now. Whoever has the money and interest, can learn the sport,” he says.  

The game offers no rewards, but a thrill. The excitement is unbelievable. It’s like F1, but with the brain and heart of an animal. The player has to connect with the horse, says Ajitesh. Speaking about the history of polo in the city, Riyaz Ahmed, the secretary of the Hyderabad Polo and Riding Club (HPRC), says: “There were 17 active polo grounds in the city in the 1920s and ‘30s. The Golkonda Polo Club was one of the leading ones and won several laurels.”

Unfortunately, after the 1950s and ‘60s, the equestrian fraternity shrunk and the grounds were used for development. “The Nizams were interested in horses and had set up several polo grounds. The influence of the British Cavalry regiment had made polo even more popular -- Winston Churchill, the Duke of Windsor and Prince of Wales played in Hyderabad,” Riyaz says.   

After the closure of the AP Riding Club at Masab Tank, which was donated by Prince of Berar Azam Jah in the early 2000s, the sport was heading towards oblivion. But, the HPRC was established in 2005, offering some hope of revival. “Bison Ground also shut down. The indoor Arena Polo Ground at Aziznagar, which allows three instead of four players, helped us revive the sport,” says Riyaz. 

After 16 years, the HPRC has 89 horses and is the largest polo club in the country. In January 2020, it held an International Women’s Polo Season which saw participation from the US, Egypt and India. Besides polo, the HPRC also started conducting equestrian activities such as show jumping, dressage and hacks.

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