The ways of leather and lace

Tarun, who owns over 20 pairs of self-crafted leather shoes, does not use flip flops or sandals.
Representational image of shoes.
Representational image of shoes.

HYDERABAD:  Never underestimate the power of a shoe, particularly a handcrafted leather shoe. A cordwainer’s skill and craftsmanship that goes into making a shoe is time tested. It’s all worth it because a pair of good leather shoes, if maintained well, can last for decades.

“People judge us by our shoes. We must wear shoes in accordance with our personality, the dressing style and comfort. A good pair of leather shoes can last forever,” says Tarun Oblum, a cordwainer and owner of shoemaking company OBLUM. 

Tarun, who owns over 20 pairs of self-crafted leather shoes, does not use flip flops or sandals. “Mojaris are my go-to footwear. I fell in love with leather shoes before I joined London College of Fashion. The institute has taught me the technicalities that go into the making of shoes,” he says.  Read on as Tarun helps us delve into the categories of timeless shoes, how to pair them with outfits and how to maintain them. 

Derby  
A distant cousin of the Oxfords, Derby is also suitable for formal occasions and be worn with a suit. These are more comfortable than the rigid Oxfords. Nonetheless, their simplistic appearance complements casual outfits. It has an open-lace system and can come with a single strap of lace, which can go up to five. Derby shoes also come with either one or two buckles.

How to wear: There are not many rules here. The open-lace system makes it versatile, one can either wear it horizontally or in a criss-cross fashion. 

Styling tip: Pair these with formal trousers, denims or chinos.

Mojaris 
The Mughals gave India mojaris. A favourite of the Nizams, these Nawabi shoes are royal, casual and easy to wear, all at the same time.

How to wear: Just like loafers, mojaris have no lace, so there are no rules. These can be worn without socks too.  

Styling tip: Except for suits, mojaris go well on anything, even shorts. Pair them up with a dhoti, lungi or sherwani, besides casual wear such as jeans.

Loafers  
Loafers are comfortable, easy to wear and easy to remove. These are pocket-friendly and classy. 

How to wear: Loafers are laceless, so there are no rules. You can even wear them without socks.

Styling tip: These go well with smart-casual outfits. Loafers look great on traditional menswear for a modern streetwear look or even on tailored trousers.

Keep ‘em shiny

  • Brush your shoe with a horse hairbrush.  Before polishing, take off the lace 
  • Use a shoe tree to position the shoe while polishing
  • Apply a conditioner, leather lotion or moisturiser to hydrate the leather. Let it rest for 15-30 minutes 
  • Brush the shoe gently and massage it with a shoe creme using a thin piece of cotton cloth wrapped around your fingers 
  • Brush the shoe again and apply a good quality shoe wax 
  • Brush the shoe again 

Oxfords 
Oxford shoes are custom and timeless formalwear. With the close-laced system, these look and make you look elegant. No man’s wardrobe should be without a pair of black Oxfords.

How to wear: The traditional way to wearing lace Oxford shoes is by ensuring that they are straight-laced so that the lace lies in neat horizontal rows across the shoe rather than in a zig-zag manner. The shoes were designed to wear in the city and used by a the noble class in Europe.  

Styling tips: Oxford shoes are perfect for formal occasions. These go well with trousers, chinos, dark denims in the shades of grey, dark brown or navy blue. 
 

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