HYDERABAD: While the manner and style of draping sarees is widely varied across the country, it has become a highly personal form of self-expression in contemporary times. Women embrace regional draping styles, showcasing their heritage, while also adopting fusion looks. Here is a look into the history of the garment
Fashion trends and styles often mirror societal or political values, allowing individuals to express their personal beliefs. Women in India have found expression in saree fashion through selection of fabrics, colours, and patterns that reflect their preferences, cultural identity, and individuality. “The British-era painter MV Dhurandhar painted the various styles in which this fabric was adorned by women in the late 1920s. In Hyderabad, the Khada dupatta style of draping sarees, all of nine-yards, heavy fabric with gold threads were worn by women of early 20th century. Gradually, the styles and influences changed, with women experimenting with velvet, chiffon and georgette,” said Anuradha Reddy, convenor, INTACH Hyderabad..
Origin of sarees
In the Indus Valley Civilization, men and women wore cotton fabrics in the form of loin cloths, known as kachcha style. This involved draping a long piece of fabric around the waist, passing one end or the center pleat between the legs and tucking it up behind for easier movement. This clothing style was not limited to Mesopotamia or the Indus Valley but was also common in Egypt, Sumer, and Assyria. Women wore a cloth called kanchuki across their breasts, similar to an early form of the choli. Over time, the women’s attire evolved into a three-part ensemble: neevi as the lower garment, kanchuki for the breasts, and uttariya as a shawl-like garment. The uttariya was often adorned, dyed, or embroidered based on the women’s status. The influence of Greeks and Persians introduced new features such as belting the garments at the waist, which appealed to affluent Indian women and adapted well to their lighter, more decorative fabrics.
Sarees in the Deccan
The region is noted for its different saree draping style from the rest of India. The classic Hyderabad saree is distinguished by its rich, heavy fabric and elaborate zari embroidery done with gold and silver threads. It is known for its legacy of Pochampally, ikkat handloom products, Siddipet handlooms, Nayaranpet handlooms, and the Gadwal handlooms.
Materials used to create sarees in Hyderabad have developed over time to adapt to shifting fashion trends and client preferences. Silk was once the most common fabric for making sarees in Hyderabad. However, with the introduction of synthetic fabrics, many weavers began experimenting with fabrics such as georgette, chiffon, and crepe.
“The introduction of Jamdani is the most significant transformation that has happened in the handloom, saree weaving technique, more enriching than the tie and dye, single ikkat and the sico saree which involved interlock weft technique; the Jamdani helped create ever more bountiful patterns and motifs. With this technique we have brought a sea-change in saree that include the big border saree, inter-woven fabrics,” said fashion designer Gaurang Shah.
“In Deccan, ikkat is regarded as one of the most complex resist-dye textile arts, with the design appearing on both warp and weft threads. This weave needs extreme precision and ability. A minor, and wrong interpretation ruins the entire outfit. We have successfully kept this weave relevant and popular through design innovation and weaver skill upgradation. We have also restored ancient ikkat designs as well as magnificent contemporary ones in futuristic colour combinations such as ink blue and fuschia pink, or lemon yellow and parrot green, orange and purple, making them consistently the world’s most brightly coloured fabrics,” said Gaurang.
Changes have also been witnessed over the years to make saree fabrics smooth and flowy, he further adds, Petit-Point embroidery has further taken saree fashion to new heights of creativity and excellence. “Inventive weaving has been used which involved use of the small threads on a six-yard saree or its border, with a fine thread-count, creating a three-dimensional impression in the needle work technique. Sarees have become more stylised, experimental, individualistic, and original. In some of the Jamdani sarees, there can be up to 1200 stitches per square inch with a plethora of nuances, hues, and colours in a design,” the designer said.
Princess Niloufer: A style icon
To define evolution, many a fashion designer and historians dote on Princess Niloufer, a lover of all things glamorous. “While traditional Indian sarees were known for their earthy and vibrant hues, Niloufer prefered to adorn her tissue and silk sarees with delicate stitching and exquisite paillette motifs, creating a truly unique look that blends eastern and western styles,” said Gaurang.
The princess, who married Prince Moazzam Jah in 1931, was an early advocate of blending Western and Indian influences in her attire. She collaborated with French designer Fernande Cicire to create her unique Indian saree-style, which was embellished by Indian craftsmen. She consistently wore sarees even while being abroad, showcasing her commitment to this cultural fusion. Today, sarees are not limited to traditional colours and styles. Instead, they can be customised and adapted to suit individual preferences, creating a look that is timeless.