A spiritual sojourn
HYDERABAD: Nampally, a bustling locality in Hyderabad, is known for its rich Sufi heritage, with many dargahs and shrines that have stood the test of time. In collaboration with The Deccan Archive, we embarked on a spiritual journey to explore three prominent dargahs in the region: Dargah-e-Shah Khamosh, Dargah-e-Yousufain, and Aghapura Dargah. These sacred sites hold profound historical and cultural significance, each with its own unique stories and architectural wonders.
The silent saint
Our journey began at the Dargah-e-Shah Khamosh, where we were greeted by Sibghat Khan from The Deccan Archive. With a hushed tone, emphasising the need to maintain the sanctity of the sacred place, he explained how the Nizams became both the patrons and followers of some of these renowned Sufi saints. Hazrat Shah Khamosh, a Sufi saint, as the legend goes, maintained a vow of silence for 25 long years.
The silence stemmed from a skirmish at the hospice in Bidar, where the saint had been sent to learn and study. A fellow brother in his faith asked him to remain silent by uttering, “Khamosh Ho Jaao!” and the saint did not speak a word after that. “It is seen as a virtue of patience, not speaking for so long requires great inner strength,” said Sibghat Khan.
The saint finally broke his silence, when the same fellow, desperate to make him speak again, climbed down a well and refused to come out until the saint resumed speaking, which he finally did. This earned him the name ‘Shah Khamosh.’The dargah is the final resting place of the saint, built in neo-gothic architectural style, thanks to the British influence. The semi-circular arches and the interiors remind us of a European church. One can witness a mesmerising display of hand-crafted chandeliers, covered with plastic to prevent dust from collecting.
A fair of faith
Our journey continued to the lively and bustling Dargah-e-Yousufain complex. This dargah pays homage to two prominent saints, Baba Yousuf and Baba Sharif, who arrived in Hyderabad as part of Mughal emperor Aurangzeb’s army camp in the 17th century. Saint Barhane Shah, the naked saint, rushed to cover himself up as these two saints walked by, as part of the camp. When asked the reason for this, he said, “Among those army of animals, there were two men and I had to cover myself because they could see me.”
As we explore the area, the vibrant atmosphere of the dargah resembles a traditional fair. Flower-sellers and pakoda-bhajia vendors call out to passersby in loud voices, creating an ambience that is both chaotic and beautiful. The dargah of Yousufain carries with it a sense of celebration. The stories associated with these revered saints add layers of mystique to the site, making it a vibrant hub of faith and devotion. The famous 19th century poet Daagh Dehlvi is also buried in the graveyard that sprawls around the shrine. “The idea being that if you are buried close to the saint, you would remain close even in the afterlife,” Sibghat said.
A bride among dargahs
Our final stop on this spiritual sojourn took us to the illuminated dargah of Agha Dawood Saheb. It shines like a bride, all lit-up and radiating an ethereal aura. Aghapura, the area where this dargah is located, owes its name to Agha Muhammad Dawood Abul Ulai, a disciple of the Sufi saint Shah Mohammed Hassan Abul Ulai.
Behind the primary dargah building, there is a 200-year-old Khankha, or hospice, a dedicated place for the gathering of the Sufi brotherhood. It is a haven for spiritual retreat and prayer, with cusped arches adorning its structure. The shrine, the hospice, the dining hall and the sama khana, are all adorned with hand crafted chandeliers, adding to the grandeur of the sacred space. The sama khana is a place where qawalis are held in reverence of the saint and in prayer to God. The passing away of the saint is celebrated as a marriage to God. The sandalwood paste, incense and flowers are part of rituals that take place every year on the death anniversary of Sufi saints.
Nampally’s dargahs hold a profound spiritual and historical legacy, each offering a unique experience and insights into the rich tapestry of Sufi culture. These sites stand as testaments to the enduring power of faith, devotion, and architectural beauty in the heart of Hyderabad.