HYDERABAD: Sarees have been an integral part of our cultural heritage and traditions. As various styles evolve, we eagerly embrace the latest trends. Recently, designer Vaishali Agarwal unveiled “Chitralekhanam,” a collection from Kaalii, blending contemporary flair with the timeless allure of handloom. Vaishali graciously shared insights into her design process, ensuring the essence of tradition remained woven into her creations. CE delves into her journey and explores the intricacies of her collection.
Tell us about your journey as a designer.
My journey began almost two decades ago, when my daughter was just a toddler. It’s a story that spans many years. Initially, I delved into designing children’s clothing, crafting numerous garments for her. Encouragement from others prompted me to consider starting my own brand. As my daughter grew, so did my brand. I gradually transitioned into designing bridal lehengas and couture wear, predominantly focusing on intricate embroidery. With growing popularity as a wedding wear brand, we ventured into curating sarees. Regular trips to Banaras and Kanchi allowed me to handpick sarees for our collection. For the past eight years, we’ve been meticulously selecting and selling sarees.
However, we eventually felt the urge to delve into designing Kanjeevaram sarees. This transition posed a significant challenge, as designing on the loom differs greatly from embroidery. It’s navigating through a grey area, where the outcome often surprises you. Unlike embroidery, you can’t rely on samples; instead, you’re essentially exploring uncharted territory. Despite the challenges, the response has been overwhelmingly positive.
Tell us about the new collection.
We’ve embraced two distinct concepts for our latest collection. For our Banarasi line, we’ve infused abundant lotus and floral motifs, incorporating vibrant multi-colour palettes. These designs are meticulously woven with meena on soft iktara fabric, ensuring both comfort and elegance. Meanwhile, our Kanchivaram collection draws inspiration from the revered Koleshwar Temple, featuring motifs like deer, yali, and lion, traditionally associated with Kanchivaram sarees. This marks our inaugural venture into selling a weave, and we’ve spared no effort to make it extraordinary.
Our photo shoot was conceptualised around “Bapu Bomma,” the artist, with every element meticulously styled to complement the theme. We even created the paintings in-house and enlisted the renowned dancer Sandhya Raju as our muse. The entire endeavour seamlessly fell into place, with our photographers capturing the essence of the sarees beautifully, even amidst the tranquil setting under the mango tree.
Elaborate on your collaboration with the weavers.
For the weavers, crafting sarees is akin to a meditative practice, infused with their artistic expression. They intricately weave their designs into the fabric, focusing on the meticulous details that define the final product. While designers contribute their unique creative vision, weavers prioritise aspects like fabric drape, design clarity, and thread count, ensuring the highest quality outcome. Collaborating with them has been a profound experience, albeit challenging at times, yet ultimately rewarding in its beauty and craftsmanship.
How did it change for you from the time of collecting sarees and selling it to now designing it?
Engaging in the buying and selling of sarees provided invaluable insights into various weaves, design concepts, and pricing structures. However, delving into the actual process of weaving added another layer of understanding.
What makes this brand different from the others?
Essentially, each individual brings their unique touch, reflecting their distinct personality. As a brand, we embrace this diversity by offering a range of styles and concepts.
Any particular design that is close to your heart in this collection?
One saree holds a special place in my heart — it features elegant standing lotuses intricately woven into the fabric. As it was being crafted, I felt a profound sense of connection and significance. This saree embodies a delightful blend of modernity and tradition, with its vibrant colours and contemporary twist. The accompanying blouse is a true standout, adorned with delicate lotus buttis, adding a charming touch to the ensemble. Without a doubt, this particular saree stands as my personal favourite, encapsulating the essence of timeless elegance with a modern flair.
Any inspirations that you count on?
At the moment, I find myself drawn to anything vibrant and colourful — it’s incredibly inspiring to me. Additionally, nature continues to be a profound source of inspiration. While it may seem like a straightforward answer, the beauty and intricacies of the natural world never fail to ignite my creativity and spark new ideas.
What are your upcoming projects?
We’re excited about our upcoming projects, including establishing a few looms in Khadi in Kakinada. Additionally, we’re actively involved in Banaras weaving, with plans to further expand into Jamdani. In Kanchi, we’re diligently working on developing a diverse range of new designs, ensuring our collection continues to evolve and captivate our audience.