HYDERABAD: T-shirts, once a symbol of casual wear, have become a canvas for artistic expression and branding. The evolution of t-shirt printing has paralleled advances in technology, transforming a simple garment into a medium for creativity and commerce.
In the early days, t-shirt printing was limited to traditional methods such as tie-dye, batik, and block printing. These techniques, while rich in cultural heritage and eco-friendly, were labour-intensive and required a high level of skill. The emergence of screen printing marked a significant shift, providing a more practical solution for adding designs to t-shirts.
Screen printing, one of the oldest forms of printing, began with a rudimentary setup. The process involved using a stencil or screen made from a wooden or metal frame with a polyester or nylon mesh. The fabric, which varied in quality and colour, was placed beneath the screen, and ink was pressed through the mesh to create the design. This method was not only effective but also allowed for the use of various types of inks, including water-based, discharge, foil, puff, and velvet prints.
As technology advanced, the screen printing process itself underwent improvements. The rotogravure printing method, which involved metal screens and required minimal manpower, facilitated larger production volumes. However, the high cost of screen production and the need for substantial quantities limited its accessibility.
The introduction of the carousel or butterfly machine revolutionised t-shirt printing in the past 25-30 years. Rajiv Aswani, owner of Graphic International, says that, “Over the past 25-30 years, the Carousel/butterfly machine has been the go-to for affordable and efficient t-shirt printing, evolving with technology and expanding into both urban and rural areas,” further adding that this machine significantly reduced costs and labour requirements, making screen printing more accessible.
With the rise of digital technology, the printing industry saw the emergence of plotter cutting and print-and-cut technologies. These innovations streamlined the process, allowing for more precise and customisable designs. Despite these advancements, the Direct-to-Garment (DTG) printing method presented a new alternative to screen printing. DTG offered high-quality prints with less manual labour but came with a high setup cost and lower production volume.
“New technologies come with new challenges,” says Lalith Ramesh Jain, owner of Shree Raj Prints. This sentiment reflects the struggles faced with DTG machines, which, despite their potential, were expensive and required significant investment.
The introduction of Direct-to-Film (DTF) printing addressed many of the limitations of DTG. DTF involves transferring prints onto a film coated with polyurethane powder. This method is more affordable and has become increasingly popular, especially in places like Hyderabad, where over 200 setups now utilise this technology. DTF offers a balance between cost and quality, making it a viable option for many businesses.
However, DTF is not without its drawbacks. The use of polyurethane powder in the process poses health risks, including potential skin and respiratory issues. Additionally, the increased reliance on plastics in t-shirt printing has raised concerns about environmental impact and health risks associated with prolonged exposure.
Ritesh Jain, Owner of Archana Enterprises, and a customer of the Graphic International comments on the evolution of t-shirt printing, “I started my journey with Graphic International 18 years ago, specialising in corporate gifting and merchandising. Over time, t-shirt customisation has evolved with technology, offering more options. For larger corporations, it’s cheaper due to higher quantities, but smaller orders are more costly due to limited resources. I deal in bulk and small orders both as well depending on who and which brand wants to get it printed along with what customisation.”
The journey of t-shirt printing from traditional methods to modern technologies highlights the continuous quest for innovation and efficiency. While each advancement brings new possibilities, it also introduces new challenges. As the industry evolves, there remains a significant opportunity for further technological improvements that prioritise both quality and environmental sustainability.