HYDERABAD: The skies have been mercilessly pitter-pattering over Hyderabad lately, haven’t they? You console yourself with cups of chai but want something more savoury, more fulfilling…mhmm, what could that be? Enter some soothing Kashmiri food.
Skillfully whipped up by Chef Aparmita Sapru in association with Chef Pin at Feast - Sheraton Hyderabad Hotel in the Financial District, the sumptuous three-course Kashmiri feast transported our palates to the Valleys.
We were first served Sunrise Delight, a tangy concoction of orange juice infused with mint and lemon and garnished with basil. Sure, this wasn’t your Kashmiri Kawah Chai but for all the piping-hot delights we were about to eat, we welcomed the refreshing contrast.
For vegetarian starters, we had the Nadru ke Kebab (Lotus stem kebab), a shallow-fried delight which screamed flavour every bite we took. The subtle tang in the aftertaste was most interesting and we couldn’t help but gobble up a few more.
For non-veg starters, we had the Mutton Shami Kebab which was perfectly packed with spices such as cardamom, cinnamon and black pepper. A favourite at the table was the juicy Kabargah, a ghee-fried mutton dish cooked in whole spices and - wait for it - milk!
Indeed, Kashmiris love their meat but love their rice even more. For the vegetarian main course, we had a humble Kala Chana Pulao (Black Chickpeas Pulao), which paired excellently with the indulgently creamy Khoya Matar, where the khoya (dried milk) added that subtle sweetness while the peas added a satisfying texture.
But the ghee was what truly elevated this dish, turning the gravy into a warm embrace as you picture yourself in some hamlet in Kashmir. Ah, my god. And when the rice and gravy was paired with the classic Dum Aloo, well, that’s it, we trotted right into food heaven, didn’t we? However, the star had to be the Khoya Matar.
For the non-veg main course, the Mutton Yakhni Pulao won our hearts with its perfectly seasoned rice and tender, flavourful meat daintily slipping off the bone.
But what made us sing praises for the chef was the Gosht Rogan Josh; with its brownish-red colour, you’d think that it would leave your tongue in flames but oh my, it was pleasantly savoury, mildly spicy and fully comforting! A little raw onion with the pairing of the Mutton Yakhni Pulao and Rogan Josh completed the holy triangle of food nirvana. The curd-based Chicken Khaliya was a delight too but the Rogan Josh definitely brought the ‘josh’ to the table!
Galloping to desserts, we were served Kewra Dahi, a rich hung curd infused with some elaichi, flavoured with kewra water, and garnished with finely chopped almonds.
The Bengalis and Odias at the table, though strictly loyal to their Mishti Doi, couldn’t resist giving this an A+. But the Rice Phirni garnished with almonds won the creamy crown - indulgent, velvety, decadent, sweet but not too sweet, a delightfully smoky rice flavour… ooh’s and mhm’s reverberated across the table!
“Most of the food today was from the Kashmiri Pandit cuisine. Kashmiri cooking itself is very different from the rest of India. Here we don’t have a green masala gravy or red masala gravy. We do have basic ingredients such as hing, ginger powder, saunf, dhaniya powder, curd, ghee, sarson tel and of course, Kashmiri masala.
But each dish tastes different because of the unique, often laborious cooking processes. Patience is key,” quipped Chef Aparmita, who says that what drew her to cooking Kashmiri food was the loss of her mother. “When she passed away, I missed her food. So I took it upon myself to learn Kashmiri cuisine. People think that Kashmiri food is only fit for special occasions but through my cooking, I want to express that it is wholesome, everyday food. Kashmiri food is not about spices but flavour,” she explained.
Three courses down, we didn’t feel stuffed or crave an afternoon nap. In fact, we felt light and peculiarly energised (yes, if we must be honest, it was the phirni). And the only downside to the whole experience was that it ended! Ah, now the Valleys are calling…