HYDERABAD: Hyderabad is a city that has been picking up and also setting trends. With changing times and impressive growth in the fashion industry, the city has become a preferred choice for top designers. CE catches up with Gaurav Jai Gupta, the designer for Akaaro, who is in the city.
Take us through your designing journey.
I went to NIFT Delhi and though fashion was new to me, I got a lot of awards when I graduated. For my final project, I did a recycling thing where we used what we call sustainable design today. In 2002, I made fabrics with waste, paper, audio cassette tapes, and wires. Then I went on to specialise in woven textiles. Then I went to London and then Paris for an exchange programme.
When I came back in 2005, I didn’t really want to start a label; in my early days we didn’t really have an infrastructure here. People told me I was overqualified because no one was really doing handloom designs then.
One thing led to another and I applied for the prestigious London Craft Fair. For the next four years, we would design and manufacture here and sell it in UK’s top galleries. In 2011, I did the Wills India Fashion Week and the first show was a huge success. I think we were the first brand to do a full show on handlooms. One thing led to another and well, here we are.
Can you tell us about handloom designs then versus now?
When I came back to India, there was really nothing happening on the textile front and not much awareness either, with customers questioning why it was so expensive.
This was challenging for me. And suddenly, several brands took to it and now it is more like a fad and a buzzword… everyone wants to do handloom. This change, growth and revival is good because it has benefited weavers and many other craftspeople. The designs and quality have improved too. Well, if you compare it with embroidery, it is still not that smooth. Since the work we do is high quality, the audience is also limited.
What is your USP?
Textiles! We have a loom within our studio and what we do is very contemporary work. Textiles are very traditional in India. We do a lot of blends, the process is extremely focused, slow and we use natural materials as much as we can.
We work with materials like steel, wool, cotton, silk and other things. Every season, we try to do something fresh. We do a lot of research and it takes around two to three years to put out a collection.
How would you contrast fashion abroad and fashion here?
I don’t think there is any difference, it works similarly everywhere. I think it has to do with the back-end, infrastructure part of it. For India, this is a relatively new concept. In India, there are hardly around 60 multi-designer closets, which is nothing for a country this size. In Europe and the US, there are anywhere between 3,000 to 6,000.
So, a major difference is accessibility- how do you reach the end consumers? The second difference is quality; many people still cannot tell the difference in quality. I particularly see that as a problem. In the West, there is a lot more money put in.
India is getting there and I think we have come quite far. We do equally good work. Unfortunately, it is very Bollywood-driven and I don’t think that is very healthy. There need to be more role models in such a big country apart from the film stars.
What are your views on Hyderabad and the changing trends here?
I have not been here a lot of times but every time I’m here, I like it more and love the weather too. It is developed yet there is an interesting blend of old and new. You learn a lot in terms of history and culture. Every time I come here, I see something new.
Will you be setting up a physical store in Hyderabad?
I am not sure about the store but will be coming up with collections here. We are already available in a few stores here such as Elahe and are in talks with a few more. We are set to reveal a festive collection by October.
Can you mention one of the best places where you find artisans in India?
I like all the places but personally have been doing more work in Pulia, West Bengal. I started my journey there back in 2006. I love the village; it is a treasure for me and there is so much to learn from the artisans there. Each cluster we work in, it takes time to understand what you can do there. I don’t like to pick up and sell. I would like to develop a language which is my own. We have also been working a lot in Chanderi, Varanasi, Panipat, Odisha and have done some work in Kanchipuram. We are trying to explore more.
Have you checked out the weaves in Telangana?
Yes, we have. One of the issues we grapple with is the language. There are some amazing, stunning textiles here. We respect the craft and community and take time to learn what they teach.
What does fashion mean to you?
Fashion is about what you are comfortable in and your individual personality. Fashion shouldn’t overpower you but rather become a part of you, a second skin. I don’t think you need to put in a lot of effort or try too hard to be somebody or do something that you are not. Clothes are very empowering and give you a lot of confidence. Fashion is your own style, it is what you believe in.
What inspires you in terms of fashion?
I think life in general inspires me. It is an ongoing journey and I don’t want to be bored. I look for things around me and I think about things which I am curious about. That translates into my work.