HYDERABAD: Satya Paul, a name synonymous with innovation, artistry, and sophistication, stands as one of India’s pioneering fashion labels. Established in 1985 by Satya Paul, the brand introduced a unique and contemporary interpretation of traditional Indian attire, particularly sarees, transforming the way modern women dress.
Known for its vibrant prints, bold colour palettes, and experimental patterns, the Satya Paul label has transcended generations, consistently staying relevant while maintaining its distinct signature style.And now the label has launched its flagship store in Hyderabad at Sattva Signature Tower, Banjara Hills. CE speaks to Kevin Nigli, one of the creative directors, about his vision for the brand, fashion scene in the city and more.
Excerpts.
Tell us about the flagship store of Satya Paul that opened recently in Hyderabad. What can we expect?
Along with David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore, I took over as the creative director in April from Rajesh Pratap Singh. We did a small capsule collection which we are showcasing here. We tried basically to capture the original idea of Satya Paul. When the label had started years ago, I think he was the first person to look at the saree in a modern way. The saree became more than just a traditional Indian garment. Satya Paul was quite a pioneer in making sarees glamorous.
There are a lot of people who still remember the original Satya Paul designs as very strong and vibrant for a very confident woman. So, we went back to look at it again and define it again.What exactly is the Satya Paul woman? For our showcase, we took inspiration from three themes — Phulkari, Pichwai and Jali.
Hyderabad is one of the first to get the collection. Apart from the saree, we’ve also expanded it into ready-to-wear, which Rajesh had started, but we’re also focusing more on being contemporary. So, it’s tunics, tops, easy dressing, but using the same spirit. We are also planning to add a line of lounge easy-wear, which is knit. So, that’s going to be launched next. And also a small capsule of men’s shirts.
How do you visualise the Satya Paul universe?
We’re trying to be more of a lifestyle thing. The home collections already had started with home furnishings, cushions and a bit of table. I think slowly that will be the next expansion.
As a designer, what’s your favourite textile or silhouette?
That’s a very difficult question. Not one in particular. Phulkari, of course, is one of the things we like. The amount of labour and intensity is something that you can’t do these days.
What do you think about Hyderabad’s fashion scene?
I think pretty much every designer now is represented in Hyderabad. So, obviously, it has grown a lot. Everyone talks about Delhi and Mumbai being fashion centres, but, I think, Hyderabad has now come of age where people do understand, appreciate and celebrate dressing. It’s a very vibrant city, you know, in terms of people going out and they’re quite fashion conscious now. So, it’s quite exciting to be a part of that scene now.
What do you think is trending this year for festivals?
I think just looking at the overall world situation, the world’s a bit unsettled at the moment. That’s when people look to fashion to give them something that we hope will be happy, will be bright. And that’s where I think Satya Paul could play quite a role. You need to feel good, there’s a lot of darkness around. We need a little cheer in our lives.
You have been in this fashion industry for so many years. How do you feel that the Indian fashion industry has evolved?
Hugely! When we started the business almost 30 years ago, I think, Ensemble was pretty much the only boutique which had just about started. For the first almost close to 10 years of the business, we only sold abroad because there was very little and India’s market had not developed. And over 30 years, there’s been a vast change. With the Fashion Design Council of India, with Fashion Weeks, it’s grown hugely.
A lot of foreign companies now also realise that this is the best place. One of the few places left in the world where you can actually do this kind of thing anymore. Because we’ve become so mechanised, we’ve become so mass production-based. In India, we have the luxury to go to a block printer and print a special design that you want. It is pretty much impossible now in the Western world to do.
What inspired you to become a fashion designer initially?
Well, I grew up with three sisters. So, I was quite involved with a lot of clothing. On every occasion or a festival or a birthday, we would go to our local darzi and then design according to the latest trends which were published in fashion magazines in those days.
As a brand, Satya Paul, if you can walk us through the creative process?
We start with a particular theme and then we put together a mood board along with the colour palette we’re going to work with. But then the team starts putting together ideas for the layout and then we look at it, we review it — it’s quite an interactive process.
And then, once the design is finalised, we get a strike off for the printing and then depending on that colour change, if you want to change the scale, then in case embroideries are added, that goes into two or three processes, what’s the right kind of embroidery for that particular design.
And then once the strike off is done, then of course it’s handed over to production. There’s a lot of to and fro because Satya Paul uses a lot of colour. What is the right colour balance? In a particular saree, if you’re using six colours, how do they balance, what is the ratio? Should something be changed? Should something be lighter? Should something be darker? So there are quite a lot of creative decisions that need to be made.
What’s next for Satya Paul?
The main focus is to expand the ready-to-wear line with the new loungewear and the men’s shirt line. So that will complement the ties and the accessories also. We’re also expanding the bag collection, as accessories are a big thing. We will probably look at a show next spring, summer.