Tamil Nadu comes calling at Raen
Most of us crave food that is not just tasty but truly irresistible — the kind of dish that lingers in your mind long after the last bite. We often try numerous mouthwatering recipes, only to find ourselves yearning to relive that flavour again and again.
At The Leela Hyderabad’s RAEN – The Chef’s Studio, food pop-ups celebrate exactly that sentiment, offering region-specific, exceptional culinary experiences. And this time, the spotlight is on Tamil Nadu, beyond the familiar rasam rice, idli, and sambar. ‘Pandya’s Virunthu’, curated by Chef Vijaya Raghavan, showcases authentic dishes from Chettinad, Madurai, and Karaikudi. Each plate is hearty, flavourful, and satisfying enough to send you into a blissful food coma. CE sampled the menu and spoke to the chef about his culinary journey and inspiration.
Excerpts
What brings you to Hyderabad and The Leela?
I lived in Hyderabad for two years with my family. My wife is a foodie; though we rarely eat out, she loves experimenting with recipes at home. But as soon as we moved here, she began missing authentic Tamil food, especially parotta, seeraga samba biryani, and other home-style favourites. We started searching for genuine Tamil restaurants but couldn’t find any that matched our taste. Later, when I travelled to different places, I kept thinking about doing a proper Chettinad food promotion, something that would appeal to the large Tamil community here, especially the bachelors and tech professionals. When the opportunity came with The Leela, I knew the timing and audience were perfect.
Tell us about your journey into the food industry.
Honestly, after finishing school, my dream was to go abroad. Around 20 years ago, culinary training was one of the easiest ways to make that move. I was the first in my family to take up this profession, although all my brothers and cousins are in the hotel industry. I’ve worked with brands like Trident, Taj, and Marriott, and now I freelance. My grandfather ran a butchery and was an excellent cook, so non-vegetarian cooking runs in the family — my mother, grandmother, and everyone else cooks wonderfully. Being from Madurai, a city famed for its food, I felt it was my responsibility to promote my hometown cuisine.
Can you tell us about the pop-up menu?
It was a challenge to finalise the menu because Tamil cuisine is vast. People always ask why a particular dish isn’t included, but I focused on recipes closest to my heart, the kind I’d want people to try if they were visiting my home. We created four set menus. Highlights include the Madurai Kola Urundai, a mutton meatball appetiser traditionally made only for special guests because it’s so labour-intensive. We sourced spices directly from Chettinad for authenticity. Another standout is the Halwa, which takes five hours of slow cooking over a low flame to achieve the perfect texture and flavour.
The omelette you served us was so juicy — what’s the secret?
It’s called Kalaki, a semi-cooked omelette infused with salana (a Tamil Nadu curry, similar to Hyderabad’s salan but with a different spice mix). The curry has about 14 spices and is folded into the omelette just before serving, keeping it moist and flavour-packed, with a hint of fresh coriander.
Tell us about the lamb appetiser.
It’s made from minced lamb, pre-cooked to make it suitable for all guests, then sautéed with shallots (small onions) and red chilli. The shallots are key — they bring depth to the flavour. We bind the mixture with roasted gram flour and fry it carefully, which makes it a tricky but rewarding dish.
Can you explain the rice used in the biryani?
We use jeera samba rice. While Chennai biryani often uses basmati, once you cross Trichy, everyone prefers jeera samba. It’s lighter, cooked using the dum method without pre-boiling, and pairs beautifully with strong spices. Our rice comes straight from Madurai, known for its exceptional quality.
And the Kothu Parotta?
Kothu Parotta is a Tamil Nadu street-food favourite made by tearing parotta into pieces and stir-frying it with onions, tomatoes, saunf powder, and other spices on a tawa. Some bits turn crispy, others stay soft — making it both a snack and a main course. In Madurai, it’s a beloved comfort food.
Which dish from the menu is closest to your heart?
The Drumstick Leaf Soup. Soups aren’t typical in Tamil home cooking, but for a hotel menu, I wanted something quick yet flavourful. We boil moong dal and drumstick leaves, temper them with garlic and shallots, and finish with lemon juice. It’s simple but delicious, thanks to the freshness of the leaves. Also, the menu begins and ends with Nannari — a refreshing drink popular in Madurai. It’s the welcome drink, and also features in our Jigarthanda dessert.
What about vegetarian options?
We have Ellu Podi Idli, tossed in ghee with black sesame podi, a staple in Tamil homes. There’s also Chana Dal Vada flavoured with banana blossom, and a Mushroom Biryani for non-meat eaters.
How long will the pop-up run?
The menu is available for lunch and dinner, except on Sundays when it’s dinner only. I’ll be here until August 24.