Pastels and Patola: Navdip Tundiya’s fresh take on a 600-year-old craft

In a candid conversation with CE, Navdip Tundiya talks about the Hyderabad store, new collection and more
Pastels and Patola: Navdip Tundiya’s fresh take on a 600-year-old craft
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3 min read

Navdip Tundiya’s journey into the fashion world started in Rajkot, where he first began designing sarees. Back then, everything was online — just fabric, craft, and the internet connecting him to buyers. But as the demand grew, so did his ambitions. From setting up a small store in Rajkot to opening outlets in Ahmedabad, Surat, and now Hyderabad, his work has steadily made a mark, one thread at a time.

Patola weaving is a tradition that goes back over 600 years in Gujarat, and Navdip has made it his mission to keep that legacy alive while giving it a fresh touch. “We work on different types of styles like the Rajkot patola, single-ikkat patola, twill weave patola, and more. Some of these sarees take 40 to 50 days to make, while the double-ikkat ones take four months to a year,” he says. It’s not just about weaving fabric — it’s about preserving a craft, which is something that requires patience, precision, and a skill passed down through generations.

His double-ikkat patola sarees stand out for their complexity. Unlike single-ikkat, where the dyeing happens on either the warp or weft, double-ikkat sarees require both to be dyed. The result? Reversible sarees with colours that remain vivid on both sides. “In single-ikkat, colours look slightly dull, but the double-ikkat sarees have a richer and deeper shade,” he explains. Each piece is a labour of love, with prices ranging from Rs 90,000 to Rs 2.80 lakh each.

Navdip Tundiya
Navdip Tundiya

Navdip isn’t just keeping patola alive; he’s pushing it forward. Traditionally, patola sarees were woven with deep reds, greens, golds, and blues. That changed when he started experimenting with colour. “Earlier, only a few shades were available, but we introduced pastels — Rama pastel, Gajari, Ferozi, and baby pink. People have loved these colours,” he says. Every collection brings something new, from colours to motifs. The latest ones feature Navratna and Manik Chowk designs, mixing traditional patterns with modern elements.

Hyderabad has embraced his work in ways he didn’t expect. Though his store in the city is just 10 months old, his clientele keeps coming back. “People here follow our Instagram daily. They know we drop new designs regularly,” he notes. It’s not just about online buzz — his designs have struck a chord with Hyderabad’s love for heritage textiles.

Building something this intricate comes with challenges. Introducing new colours to double-ikkat weaving was a hurdle. “It was difficult to get the pastel shades right. It takes months or even years to get the shade right. This weaving technique is very difficult and takes about a year. Every fabric is made using threads in the warp and weft. In a double-legged saree, the tie-and-dye process is done on both sides — drape and pallu. This gives the saree its bright and vibrant colours,” he reveals. But his patience paid off, and his pastel patola sarees are among the bestsellers.

His designs go beyond sarees. He creates dupattas, jackets, clutches, and even beaded mobile covers — all handmade and embodying the essence of Gujarat’s craftsmanship. He introduces two to three collections every year, and the next big drop is planned for Diwali.

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