Lush green landscapes, ethereal waterfalls, and aromatic coffee plantations... wouldn’t you like to be in Coorg every single day? Well, a delicious fragment of Kodava culture presented itself on our plates at the Kodava Food Festival in Golconda Pavilion, ITC Kohenur. Chef Smitha Kuttayya, who looked stunning in her Kodagu-style saree, treated us to what was no less than a delightful feast right from the hills of her beloved homeland. She told CE, “The unique distribution of flavours and the use of local ingredients such as kachampuli, a local vinegar, is what makes Kodava cuisine stand out.”
We started off with the Balekai Barthad, plantains marinated in kachampuli, shallow-fried and coated with rice flour. This dish was simply superb, with the right amount of sourness, crisp and texture. Its non-vegetarian counterpart, Meen Barthad, where the fish was marinated in kachampuli, chillies, and salt, was just as irresistible, with everyone going back for more. The Bollary Barthad, shallow-fried cucumber with spices and green chillies, was moderately spicy yet soothing. The Nallamalu Erchi and Koli Barthad — lamb and chicken fry respectively — stood out. The lamb, with subtle hints of cinnamon and cardamom, took you on a flavour ride. “Traditional Kodava cooking uses minimal oil for meat, relying on the lard instead. We also don’t favour overly spicy food, and because of our proximity to Kerala, we love using coconut; almost every dish has it,” Chef Smitha explained with a chuckle.
All the dishes were plated so professionally, but Chef Smitha revealed that this is the effect of modernity; traditional Kodava cuisine draws from its warrior culture, which prioritises bulk cooking for sustenance and togetherness. But then there are commonalities too — a staple loved across the southern states, the dosa appeared in its Kodava avatar: Neer Dosa. We had two versions: one filled with veg poriyal, the other with prawns marinated in kachampuli. Though quite full, we were treated to more of that famed Kodava hospitality.
Chef Smitha brought out Otti (Kodava-style akki roti) and Kadambuttu (steamed rice balls) served with six curries. The Kootu, a mixed vegetable stew, matched the rainy Hyderabad mood perfectly, while the Kaad Mange, a tangy seasonal mango gravy, became an instant favourite. The spicy Meen Curry melted in the mouth, but the Koli Kanni, a chicken curry rich with coconut, cardamom, cloves, and pepper, stole the show. But no Kodava meal is complete without Pandi Curry or pork curry. While the other curries paired well with the Otti, the Pandi Curry was perfect with the Kadambuttu; the grainy rice balls with soft, flavourful pork created a textural celebration in the mouth. Among the vegetarian curries, the Baimbale Curry, made with tender fermented bamboo, burnt onions, and roasted rice, was the winner.
Now, both Hyderabadis and Kodavas love their rice, and so we had Erchi Pulav, a coconut-based lamb pulav which brought back the flavours of the hills, especially when paired with Mango Pachadi. The Vegetable Pulav was just as good. The spiciest dish was the Onkkerchi, or dry-shredded pork, due to the generous use of bird’s eye chilli.
It left us craving something sweet and so we had Thambuttu, mashed ripe bananas blended with roasted rice flour. With a generous drizzle of ghee, this dish was traditional perfection. “A woman is central in the Kodava household. During Puthari, our harvest festival, we make Thambuttu and offer it first to the married daughters, praying for their well-being,” shared Chef Smitha. The meal concluded with Kaskase Payasa, a delicious poppy seed kheer that was so good, it was hard to stop at one helping.
We were 800 km away from Coorg that day, but after tucking into that delightful spread, we felt miles closer to the hills.