From delicate studs to minimalist rings, the rich tradition of South Indian nose ornaments or mookuthi takes centre stage in Sarath Selvanathan’s Chennai-based fine-jewellery brand, Mookuthi. Dedicated solely to crafting nose-pins that draw from Chola-era temple carvings, Chettinad floor tiles, and intricate kolam patterns, the label bridges past and present through subtle yet meaningful designs. In Hyderabad for a three-day pop-up at Kosha, Film Nagar, Sarath spoke to CE about turning a culturally rooted adornment into an expressive, wearable art form.
Excerpts
Tell us about your journey into jewellery. What inspired you to start?
Honestly, jewellery was never on the cards. I’m a mechanical engineer and worked in the power sector for three years. But since it was the family business, I got involved, initially focusing on systems and processes, not design. I didn’t even appreciate design back then. But in true South Indian fashion, if you don’t know something, you study it. So, I studied design and that changed everything.
Friends in Chennai started asking me to make jewellery. I began with bangles, earrings, necklaces. Then, in November 2015, I designed my first mookuthi for a friend. It was tiny, just a one-square-centimetre piece, but the transformation it brought to her face was profound. It moved me. That moment shifted everything.
How did Mookuthi as a brand come into being?
In 2017, I was doing a business programme and had to pitch a project. That’s when Mookuthi, a brand focused solely on nose ornaments was born. We did a soft test launch in 2018. It’s been seven and a half years since, and I’ve been completely obsessed with nose ornaments ever since.
How does the Hyderabad market compare to other South Indian cities?
Every city views ornamentation differently. Their exposure to traditional and contemporary styles varies. Hyderabad, to me, is a beautiful blend of rootedness and modernity. People here aren’t afraid to experiment, they pull off bold and meaningful designs with ease. There’s openness and curiosity, which I love.
What kind of collection are you showcasing at this pop-up?
It’s a culmination of over six and a half years of work, about 100 pieces. I don’t think in terms of ‘new’ versus ‘old’ collections. Each mookuthi is like a miniature painting. I play with texture, metal, stones, and colour. It’s a slow design evolution.
The ideas come from everywhere — travel, films, books, conversations, even memories. Something will just click. It takes about six to eight months to develop a full collection. There’s no linear process; it’s messy and intuitive. But eventually, something cohesive comes together.
Is there one collection that’s especially close to your heart?
Definitely Athangudi. It took me two years not just to design it, but to truly understand its roots. Athangudi is a village near Chettinad, where I’m from. I grew up seeing those vibrant tiles. One day, I thought, ‘What if that pattern came onto a nose ornament?’ That idea led me to Jaipur, roaming around with a translator, trying to convince artisans to experiment. The first piece from that journey is framed at my home, it’s that special.
Outside of designing, what do you enjoy?
Funny thing, I don’t actually enjoy the act of designing! It’s just 5-10% of my work. The rest is observing, exploring. I travel 15 days a month. I love food, old architecture, antiques and old people too! They have wisdom, and they love to share. Lately, I’ve gotten obsessed with cocktails — the craft, the flavours. I don’t like sitting still, so movie theatres are a no-go. I’d rather be out, experiencing something new.
Any plans to open a store in Hyderabad?
Not at the moment, but who knows? Never say never.