Rich, elegant Paithani sarees draped like royalty all around, the soft scent of jasmine floating through the air. In front of us stood a designer, a weaver, and a stylist, each ready to unravel the magic behind every weave. That was the vibe at Chapter II of Revival Stories at Swadesh, Jubilee Hills, a journey into the timeless world of Paithani.
After their inaugural chapter Banarasi weaves, Swadesh showcased the regal splendour of Maharashtra’s iconic drape — the Paithani. Revival Stories, a limited edition collection of Paithani, is presented after meticulous research and masterful craftsmanship.
Once they decided Paithani was their next chapter, the first step was immersion. The team at Swadesh travelled to Paithan and Aurangabad, home to this legendary weave, and spent months working closely with master weavers and textile historians. The process involved studying heirloom sarees, some over 150 years old, stored in family trunks and private collections. They traced motifs, deciphered weaving techniques that had nearly vanished, and engaged in patient dialogue with artisans whose knowledge is often passed down orally over generations.
One of the most extraordinary moments in this journey came through their collaboration with renowned textile revivalist, Ajay Bhoj. A custodian of generational wisdom, Ajay opened the doors to a rare and remarkable archive, an heirloom collection of sarees and dupattas dating back nearly 200 years, handcrafted by his forefathers for the queens of royal families.
Among these treasures was a Paithani saree, its colours still vivid, its zari untouched by time. The craftsmanship was breathtaking with floral vines in full bloom, parrots with intricate plumage, and motifs rendered with a finesse rarely seen today. Ajay recounted how his great-grandfather had woven the piece for a Maratha queen, using techniques that are now almost lost to time.
Each chapter in the series focuses on a specific heritage weave, reviving age-old techniques, forgotten motifs, and heirloom designs. Inspired by heirloom sarees dating back 150 to 200 years, each piece in this collection showcases exceptional craftsmanship and cultural reverence. These sarees are painstakingly handwoven over several months, employing some of the rarest, most authentic techniques known to the Paithani tradition. Select pieces are enriched with real zari, enhancing their rarity and purity.
The collection was nothing short of a poetic tribute to heritage and handcraft. For instance, the Handloom Paithani, a royal reimagining of a 200-year-old legacy from Paithan, Aurangabad, brought to life over six months using intricate, time-honoured tapestry techniques. Suvarna shimmered with the soul of a 150-year-old heirloom once graced by the Maharashtrian royal family, exuding sheer opulence and cultural depth. In contrast, Aakashi whispered quiet luxury, woven from pure mulberry silk and real zari, embodying a refined minimalism. The Ashavali Buta dupatta stood out as a rare revival, blending silk and cotton into a six-month labour of love that beautifully merged tradition with a contemporary silhouette. Satara, crafted over eight months of meticulous research, was a heartfelt homage to timeless royal elegance. And finally, Chandrakala, a bold crimson statement, dazzled with intricate asawalli floral motifs and reversible tapestry work, making it a standout piece for bridal and festive grandeur.
The collection further includes Paithani sarees in a vibrant spectrum of hues like royal purple, delicate pink, rich crimson, ivory, and deep red. Signature motifs such as the munia (parrot) border, ashavalli vines, and bangdi mor are masterfully handwoven in designs that are perfectly mirrored on both sides, a hallmark of authentic Paithani artistry.
The Paithani showcase was a journey not only into textile history but also into the lives and legacies of the families who have preserved these traditions through quiet devotion. Every saree that emerged from this process carries not just craft, but memory.