The aroma of something extraordinary filled Hyderabad as Permit to Grill at Novotel Hyderabad Convention Centre hosted celebrated chef Katherine Lim for an exclusive Hakka Chinese Weekend. A true storyteller through food, Katherine brought with her the soulful legacy of her nomadic Hakka heritage; reinterpreted with bold, contemporary flair. Known for pioneering Progressive Hakka Cuisine, she went far beyond the familiar comfort of Hakka noodles and chilli chicken, offering a range of flavours inspired by Hong Kong, Singapore, Toronto, and Taipei. In conversation with CE, the chef spoke about authentic Hakka cuisine, her pop-up journey, and the inspirations that shape her culinary identity.
Excerpts
How did your love for cooking begin?
I grew up in Amritsar, Punjab, as a third-generation Hakka Chinese. Unlike the Hakkas settled in Tangra, Kolkata, we didn’t have access to typical Chinese ingredients, so my family made everything from scratch. Cooking was part of our daily life and interestingly, men in my family always cooked. My grandfather was an excellent cook, and my grandmother worked as a hotel chef in Amritsar back in the 1950s — quite revolutionary for her time. Watching them sparked my curiosity about why we cook things a certain way or make everything by hand. That’s where it all began.
Hakka cuisine is often misunderstood. How are you reintroducing it through your pop-ups?
When I’d tell people I’m Hakka, they’d instantly say, ‘Oh, Hakka noodles!’ That’s why my brand is called I Am Not a Noodle. My first pop-up, Not a Noodle Shop, was at Masque Lab in Mumbai, India’s top restaurant today. I’ve never served Hakka noodles on my menu. Hakkas are a migratory people; the word literally means ‘guest families’. They’ve settled across the world — from China’s Meizhou region to India, Taiwan, Singapore, and Canada — adapting their cuisine to local ingredients. That adaptability defines Hakka cooking. My pop-ups reflect that spirit of evolution and reinvention.
Hyderabad loves bold flavours, how did your dishes resonate here?
I was told Hyderabadis like their food spicy, but my dishes aren’t fiery. Yet, the response was amazing! The standout dish has been Yam Abacus Beads — shaped like the old Chinese abacus and made from yam and tapioca starch, then stir-fried with mushrooms, chives, and bean sprouts. Traditionally, it includes pork and dried seafood, but I created a vegetarian version that everyone loved. Many guests even thought it had seafood in it because of the texture. It’s been heartwarming to see Hyderabad embrace something so unfamiliar.
You also hosted a hands-on workshop. How was that experience?
(Laughs) I’m a terrible teacher! I don’t measure anything — it’s all instinctive, a pinch of this, a dash of that. But seeing participants taste the final dish and exclaim, ‘This is so good!’ makes it rewarding. Teaching, though, isn’t something I see myself doing full-time.
How do you balance authenticity with creativity?
I retain authentic components but interpret them creatively. For instance, my roast crackling pork, a traditional Chinese dish, is served with mashed potatoes and kashundi mustard from Bengal instead of Chinese mustard. I even use Gobindobhog rice from Bengal. My plates mix cultures; a bit of China, a bit of Bengal — but the roots remain Hakka.
Is Chinese food really that spicy?
Not really! Only Sichuan cuisine is intensely spicy. Most Chinese food isn’t. Even Malaysian Chinese food is mild. Many places host ‘Chinese festivals’ but the food isn’t authentically Chinese. Here, guests know it’s genuine and that’s what makes me happiest.