Food has continuously transcended nourishment in Hyderabad — it is memory, it is identity, and it is legacy. Keeping that legacy alive with care and purpose is Shahnoor Jehan, the woman behind Khassa by Shahnoor Jehan. Food for her is a conduit to the past, a means of maintaining those beloved recipes of yore passed down from her mother and grandmother while trying to honour past flavours for today’s generation.
“Khassa actually in Urdu means ‘I cooked food,’” explains Shahnoor, reflecting on how her home cooked food found its identity. “I started in around 2015, but the name was given in 2019. It is cooked food, and I tried to keep the old recipes that my mother and grandmother had made. I am still following the same recipes and doing this food,” she adds.
Unlike modern fast-food models, Shahnoor has kept her system rooted in patience and authenticity. She takes only pre-booked orders, often requesting customers to inform her at least two to three days in advance. “Some of my recipes take really long — like Badam ka kund, which takes six to eight hours. That is why I take pre-booked orders. So when people order, I tell them to give me at least two to three days’ time. That way, I can maintain the taste to 90–99% the same as my mother’s recipes,” she shares with pride.
Her happiest moments are when old friends of her late mother tastes her food and says, “It tastes just like hers.” Shahnoor beams as she recalls, “That makes me feel very proud that I have still maintained the standard and the taste of cooking.”
While Hyderabad’s culinary identity is closely tied to Biryani and Haleem, Shahnoor’s menu explores much more. “Biryani these days is found everywhere, so it is still not on my menu. But Haleem is a very stable dish in my menu, preferred by so many people, along with Mutton Roast,” she says.
She adds, “There are other dishes beyond Haleem and Biryani — Dum ka Murgh and Mutton Korma. All these dishes are something beyond the usual, and people love them. I even have customers who take Haleem abroad. They ask me to freeze it, along with Shikampura and Shami Kebabs, so they can carry it safely. Even when they eat it abroad, they send feedback that the taste remains the same.”
One of Shahnoor’s dearest associations is with Rajkumari Indira Devi Dhanrajgir, a childhood friend of her mother and a family-like presence in her life. “She and my mother studied together, grew up together, it is like family to us. She always says I am like her daughter. She tells me, ‘It’s the same taste your mother had, and it is my favourite dish.’ She especially loves my Shami Kebabs, Shikampura, Baghara khana, and Dumka,” shares Shahnoor warmly.
The emotional bond runs deep. “Whenever I go to her place, the love and affection I get from her makes me feel my mother is still there. Recently she even told me, ‘I didn’t know I had a daughter.’ These things make me so emotional. On Diwali and her birthdays, my family makes sure to visit her, it’s always a very memorable time.”
Maintaining authenticity in a world of convenience-driven cooking has not been easy. But Shahnoor stands firm. “Everybody is making food these days, and you find outlets and takeaways everywhere. I don’t criticise anyone, everybody has their own taste. But Hyderabadis who have eaten authentic food before still say I maintain that taste,” she says with quiet confidence.
The secret? Making everything from scratch. “Even my garam masala, I make it at home. I don’t use anything frozen or with preservatives. Whenever I take an order, I make sure everything is fresh. Maybe that is why people like it so much,” she explains.
On the growing trend of home chefs preparing their own masalas instead of using packet ones, she adds, “I have always done it myself. I stick to the same measurements my mother followed. If it is a cup, it has to be one cup — not less, not more. If it is over, I make it again. I don’t exceed the measurements.”
For Shahnoor, every dish she makes is a tribute to her mother. “I really thank my mom still — when people appreciate her, though she’s not there, her name is there. I am there to represent all those things,” she says emotionally, adding, “From my childhood, I was always with her, helping her cook. Maybe I have inherited this love for cooking. Even today, there are so many recipes I will continue to bring forward for people.”
She even plans to expand her menu soon. But more than business, it is about keeping tradition alive. “Some old dishes are hardly known today like Busa and Khosi. Very few people order them, but I still make them. I say people should at least taste them once. These things take very long to make, but those who know them really appreciate that I still keep them alive,” she shares.
As Hyderabad evolves, Khassa by Shahnoor Jehan is serving not just food but memories, warmth, and love passed down through generations.
