There are certain places that carry with them the weight of memory and the magic of time. Old havelis that have carved balconies, arched entrances, sunlit courtyards and fading frescoes, are not just structures but vessels of stories and legacies. It is this world of quiet elegance and grandeur that designers Shyamal and Bhumika step into with their new couture collection, Haveli, a line that reimagines heritage in the present.
For designers, the inspiration came from home, quite literally. One of their ancestral homes in the old pols of Ahmedabad, a haveli that has been standing since the 1700s, provided both memory and muse. “For us, a haveli isn’t just an architectural structure; it’s a living, breathing world filled with memories, stories, and the quiet elegance of another era. Haveli felt like bringing our heritage to life, stitch by stitch,” they say, explaining how the intricate floral trellises, carved wooden panels and swinging jhoolas found in these ancestral homes became motifs in the collection.
Every piece in Haveli tells a story, crafted through a long process that begins with a single spark: a memory, a motif and evolves into sketches, silhouettes, and countless hours of work with artisans. “Every piece in Haveli carries hours of handwork in zardozi, aari, peeta, and resham, done the traditional way but placed on modern, wearable silhouettes. In that sense, we’re not just preserving heritage, we’re making it part of the present so the next generation can wear it, love it, and pass it on. With this collection, we transform the spirit of Gujarat’s glorious past into couture that’s deeply personal and timelessly celebratory, a journey through heritage, captured in every pleat,” the designers explain. Each lehenga becomes a canvas for layered embroidery, where peeta adds sculptural finesse and motifs echo the carvings of centuries past, yet feel effortless in today’s wardrobes.
The collection makes use of an array of fabrics, from hand-woven silks like matka, tassar, moonga and raw silks to tulle, crepe de chine and georgette. Embroidery techniques include appliqué, marodi and resham alongside traditional zardosi. Sustainability has been woven into the process as well. “Being environmentalists, we use eco-friendly, natural and biodegradable fabrics. They are sourced from weavers from different states of India. We believe our handicraft industries are the finest in the world and need to be encouraged for a sustainable future. We are lucky to have the luxury of hand-woven fabrics in our country, and we treasure them,” they add. Many artisans they work with have been part of their journey for two decades, some as a permanent team, others working quietly from their villages.
The colour palette reflects the passage of time itself: dusty rose, powder peach, mint and oxidised gold inspired by lime-washed walls and faded frescoes, paired with jewel tones like ruby red, forest green and indigo reminiscent of haveli interiors. But capturing the soul of the haveli was not without its challenges. “The biggest challenge was translating the soul of the haveli into garments without losing its authenticity. We were working with details like centuries-old carvings, faded frescoes, and traditional embroidery styles, and the aim was to preserve their essence while making them relevant for today’s fashion. It meant months of research, experimenting with fabrics, colours, and techniques, and working closely with artisans to get every detail just right. Balancing heritage with modern wearability was not easy, but that is what makes Haveli so special,” the designers admit.
Looking ahead, the designers see Haveli as more than a single collection. Plans are already underway to extend its motifs into menswear, says Shyamal and Bhumika, “Imagine a groom’s sherwani with intricate peacock jaali embroidery, or a hand-embroidered stole that feels like a fragment of an old haveli balcony. Even in accessories, we’re thinking of heirloom-style pieces like embroidered potlis, belts, maybe even clutches with the same carved floral and vine details you see in the garments.” Capsule versions too will soon follow, the designers add, “We shall eventually create capsule versions or scaled down styles for a broader audience, over the next few months, create simpler, easy-to-wear styles that are not super opulent for the broader audience.”
Haveli is not just a couture line but a tribute, to an inheritance retold through fabric, embroidery and colour. It bridges the distance between past and present, allowing the spirit of heritage to move forward, not as a relic, but as something alive, wearable and deeply personal.