Italian cuisine has long enjoyed a loyal following in Hyderabad, celebrated for its comforting flavours and timeless appeal. At Raen – The Chef’s Studio by The Leela, the city recently experienced Italian Nights, curated by Chef Diego Martinelli. Over an unhurried meal, CE spoke to the chef about his journey across continents, his philosophy of food, and the menu he crafted for the evening.
Excerpts
Tell us about the pop-up and your experience working with the chefs here.
It’s always a pleasure. This is my first time working in Hyderabad, though I didn’t really get to explore the city as I was busy with preparations. Still, the experience has been wonderful. I’ve worked with The Leela earlier in Delhi, and over the last few months I’ve been doing several collaborations — Bengaluru last month, Delhi before that, and Chennai next. Now I’m also looking towards the western side of India for future pop-ups.
Tell us about your journey as a chef.
I started professionally in 1998 in England. I’m from Italy and studied at a catering school there. In my third year, I was sent abroad as part of a programme, which took me to London, where I worked with the Four Seasons. While I was there, they asked if I wanted to stay on. I went back home, told my parents it would be just for a year — and I never really went back. I stayed with the company for almost nine years. Later, I moved to Indonesia, where I now live, work, and run my own restaurant.
How has your experience been throughout this journey?
I consider myself very lucky. My parents always encouraged me. During my time with Four Seasons, I worked across France, Milan, Dublin, and Egypt, and became a restaurant chef at the age of 22. Later, I moved to Doha for a hotel opening, then to Indonesia in 2007 with Bulgari Hotels, followed by Singapore, and eventually back to Indonesia. In 2024, I moved to Delhi and spent three years with The Leela before returning to Indonesia to open my new restaurant — a pasta bar. We work both B2B and B2C, producing for hotels and restaurants, as well as catering for events and weddings. When the opportunity came to return to India for this pop-up, I was happy to say yes.
What first attracted you to food?
I come from a region where food is central to life — conversations always revolve around it. I knew I didn’t want a 9-to-5 factory job. I truly discovered my passion for food while working in London. If you love this profession, it can be incredibly rewarding.
Tell us about the menu you curated for the evening.
It’s a five-course meal, beginning with Burrata, which is very close to where I’m from in Italy. However, it’s rich and heavy, so you have to adapt it to the local palate. Portions change depending on where you are — in Japan it might be 30 gm, while in the US it could be 200 gm. After the Burrata, we offer pasta options like Butternut Squash Tortellini and Chicken Mousse Caramel Pasta. The main course includes a melt-in-the-mouth local Lamb Shank and Eggplant Parmesan. Dessert is a Strawberry Millefoglie layered with mascarpone creme. Pasta is definitely my favourite.
What does food mean to you?
Food is an act of love. We don’t have much time, so when I eat, it has to be good and hot. I get upset if food is lukewarm. Food is about respecting ingredients, and wasting food is almost a sin to me. You have to do the best with what you have. I love a good thali — the mutton here is excellent — and the biryani too, though the portions are too big for me to finish.