Authentic, artful and appetizing - the first words that will come to one’s mind after savouring a delightful meal from the newly opened ‘Thakkaaram’ restaurant that caters to exclusive grandma recipes from the kitchens of Malabar. Right from the name of the restaurant to the place where food is served to its menu, everything related to the restaurant is sure to win the heart of a foodie. “’Thakkaram’ is a colloquial term used in the northern Malabar regions for welcome feast (salkaram in Malayalam). People here generally know only about Thalassery biryani and ‘pathiris’ as Malabar food. But there are so many delectables that are still unknown. After two years of research and by collecting the secret menus from the great chefs of Malabar, we brought out ‘Thakkaaram’,” says Shanavas, one of the founding member.
If you are on a big family and friends outing, then the restaurant welcomes you to ‘Okathakka’. Don’t get confused, it is the restaurant’s biggest hall that can seat more than 15-20 people at a go. The name has its origin from the social food gatherings during the famous Taliparamba palli perunnal, Thangalepalliyile nercha and Trichambaram utsavam. Lip-smacking dishes can also be tasted from halls namely ‘Mukkola’, ‘Kappaalam’, ‘Undparambu’, ‘Karyambalam’ and ‘Kareemkhande Vandichaya’, all inspired from the places in and around Kannur which narrates the emotional stories woven with tasty outings.
Moving on to the menu which is like a catalogue to the history of Malabari cuisine, foodies will be in a daze as to choose what from the vast titillating menu. The specialty dishes are artfully curated under ‘samavar’ - tea and coffee specialties, ‘kathaladakkal’ - includes various Indian breads and egg, fish and chicken dishes, ‘kathal opparam’ - combo meals, ‘Ammayidey appatharangal’ - various lip-smacking snacks, ‘Kozhiyiley melaakkam’ - various chicken dishes, ‘Aadindey athruppam’ - various mutton delicacies to name a few.
Ammamyide appatharangal includes some of Ammayi’s specials such as muttamala, panineerpetty, karat pola, kozhiyada, erachi pathiri etc.
From this enticing menu, ‘Mutton kekan ulli’ will be an absolute delight for the foodies. The handpicked mutton pieces which are cooked in shallots will just melt away in your mouth with its rich taste. “It is an age-old recipe which was prepared in the kitchen of Oliyam Mareetha,” adds Shanavas. The cravers for hot and spicy delectable, ‘Kalbinte kottu curry’ will tantalise their tastebuds. “The beef is cooked in Kashmiri chilli and other masalas. They are spicy and goes well with pathiri, appam and parottas. This recipe has its origin from Ceylon Moidukka’s kitchen,” says Shanavas.
Another house specialty is ‘Kozhi muzzman’ which is a complete filling dish, where a whole chicken is stuffed with egg and masalas and then oil fried.
You can also savour ‘Ramanthali pothu curry’, a thick gravy prepartion that has its roots from a mosque in Kannur. “This is a special dish that is only served during Thangala Palli nercha,” explains Shanavas. Other tempting dishes that will be hard to miss are ‘Kozhi aanam’, ‘Meen aanam (recipe from Khadeeja Hajjumma’s kitchen), ‘Kozhi mannu chattiyil vattichat’, ‘Aatirachi veluthulli kaachiyath’, ‘Chicken pachamulakk’ and ‘Pothu irachi kurumulakittu vattichat’ to name a few.
‘Thakkaaram’ began its luscious journey four years back when food buffs Shanavas, Shihab, Ramesan and Abdullah joined hands catering the scrumptious recipes of Malabar region at Thalipparambu. The restaurant then opened more branches in Dubai and Qatar and Kochiites first savoured its unique dishes last November, at Deshadan Plaza, near Passport Office, Panambilly Nagar. The newly opened restaurant opposite Gold Souk will also open one-of-its-kind food experience in a bus. “’Thakkaaram bus’ is a unique concept which was developed from having food inside a bus. For that we have modified an old-model bus into a 18-seater eatery. It will create an ambience of having food when you are in a bus stand, with peanut and ginger toffee sellers, refreshment and tea sellers frequenting the place. The bus conductor will be taking the orders too,” explains Shanavas about this interesting concept.