KOCHI: Backpackers’ quest to explore uncharted virgin spots got a whole new direction with the mushrooming of virtual travel communities like ‘Sanchari’.
Apart from the popular touristy retreats like Munnar, Vagamon, Ramakalmedu- with high proximity to Ernakulam district- new places like Meesapulimala has become stamping grounds.
One such destination which gained prominence recently is ‘Thommankuthu Waterfalls’, tucked 20km away from Thodupuzha. Thommankuthu towers amidst the verdant forest, enthralling falls, wandering rivers, dark woods and baffling caves.
One falls, many names
The popular belief is ‘Thommankuthu’ was christened by a tribal leader called ‘Thumban’ who got washed away in the waterfalls somewhere in the 90’s. The 10-step waterfalls, which plunge from a height of 1,500 m, hold unique monikers like ‘Thommankuthu’, ‘Ezhunilakuthu’, ‘Thenkuzhikuthu’, ‘Chekuthankuthu’, ‘Palunkankuthu’, Kudachiyarkuthu’, ‘Muthikuthu’, ‘Nakkayankuthu’, ‘Thekkanthonikuthu’ and ‘Koovamalakuthu’. At each step there is a cascade and a pool below it.
Caves
Caves are a major attraction of the place. There are almost seven caves in Thommankuthu including ‘Plapothu’, ‘Palunkan allu’, ‘Muthimukk allu’, ‘Maakkal allu’, ‘Adappan’, ‘Manthikaanam’ and ‘Arakan’.
Cry for revival
Despite all its bewitching charm, Thommankuthu is blighted by the curse of neglect. Lack of parking space, canteen facilities and other basic amenities are a blot on the landscape. “Waste mangagement is another issue. ‘Chitrakoodam’, a government programme aimed at turning the place into a plastic-free zone and setting up a lush garden fell by the wayside,” said Baburaj, Guide VSS.
Recently, a meeting was held by the Forest Department wing of Idukki to discuss the shortcomings at Thommankuthu and to provide adequate facilities. “We hope the meeting will ushe in positive changes,” said Lals Thomas, a guide. This year, the department has spent Rs 20 lakh for the development of Thommankuthu.
Eco-tourism
The spot found a place in the tourism map in 2001. The Vana Samrakshana Samiti (VSS), formed in 2003, is the only active committee tasked with the protection of the area. The VSS launched eco-tourism in Thommankuthu on May 27, 2005.
VSS also initiated activities like trekking, bird watching, viewpoints, and infrastructure facilities like restrooms,” said Sarojini, a senior committee member of VSS.
At present, there are 40 guides under the VSS committee whose income depends on the proceeds collected from the entry passes. Though the government has sanctioned many developmental schemes, most remain in paper.
“Though they made tall promises, the DTPC has never engaged in any activities at Thommankuthu,“ said Sindhu Benny, a VSS guide.
Stone pavements, musical fountain, boating and children’s park are in the pipeline. “Once these facilities are set up, Thommankuthu is certain to top the tourism chart,” said a foreigner. An interpretation centre has also been set up.
Nature’s marvels
‘Kannadiyaru’ is the river that forms the falls. It originates 20km inside the Plakkulam forest area and wanders through the Kaliyar forest. Roar of the falls could be heard even before one reaches the spot. Rare species of butterflies like ‘Southern Bird Wing’, ‘Tamil Yeoman’ and ‘Nilgiri Clouded Yellow’, and exotic birds like the Great Indian Hornbill are calling cards.
Hikers' delight
A 7-km trek deep into the forest with prior consent from a guide. “Trekking is the best way to explore Thommankuthu,“ said Rakesh, a tourist. A five-member team can trek at a nominal rate of Rs 1,000, and Rs 100 for each additional member. Trekking allows tourists to visit the other five waterfalls and the caves en route.
Green Carpet initiative
The Green Carpet initiative by the Kerala Tourism Department aims at building a sustainable destination management system.
Green Carpet was launched in 2016 in Thommankuthu by the District Tourism Promotion Council (DTPC). However, the people in the area are clueless about this project. "We haven’t heard of any such scheme,” said one of the guides. Meanwhile, the Green Carpet officerssaid as Thommankuthu waterfalls comes under the Kaliyar forest range, they were unable to initiate any developmental actitivities. “We provide funds for upkeep when needed,” said Pradeesh H Vijayan, project engineer. As a fresh step, Green Carpet project has now sanctioned funds to execute basic amenities like free drinking water, proper dressing rooms and toilets.
Tryst with tinsel town
The mystic lure of Thommankuthu has enthralled even the tinsel town. ‘Pulimurugan’,’Oridathoru Postman’, ‘Swapnasanchari’ and ‘Aadupuliyaattom’, ‘Utopiayile Rajav’ are some of the mollywood movies shot here. Hollywood, tollywood and bollywood movies were also smitten by the pristine beauty of the locale.
Rustic lure
Another major highlight is the tribal community named ‘Uralis’ who inhabit the forests situted above the waterfalls.They are mostly found in the Idukki hills. Uralis are mainly agricultural workers who had their roots in Madurai. Earlier, these tribes used to live in tree huts. Now, they have moved into bamboo and brick houses. “We are a small community and we eke out a living collecting pepper, honey and other medicinal plants,” said Ponjan, a tribal.
Safety measures
Effective safety measures were in place since 2003. All the five major points where tourists are allowed to take a dip have a guide each.
Entry rates
The ticket fares and other facilities are cheap compared to other eco-tourism destinations. The prices range between Rs 10 and Rs 20, and an additional Rs 10 for camera. The rates are same for foriegners as opposed to other spots.
Downside
Accomodation is another drawback.
“There are only limited lodging and boarding facilities near the waterfalls. The nearest accomodation is at Thodupuzha, 17 km away,” said Johny Markose, watcher at the falls.
How to Reach
70 km from The Cochin International Airport
70 km from Aluva railway station
KSRTC bus station is 20 km from Thodupuzha
Best season to visit:May to September