KOCHI: Ojeen is Kochi’s hidden gem. Neither does it join its rivals on the forefront on the street opposite the Marine Drive, nor does it vie for attention with its contemporaries in Broadway. The place has been a constant crowd-puller for the past nine years with its exquisite Malabari snacks, biriyani and diverse collection of teas.
“Back then in Ernakulam, snacks were limited to pazhampori and bonda. I wanted to bring the choicest Malabar snacks to the table here. That marked the beginning of Ojeen. The place believes in serving fresh food, like those served at home. We have no facilities for freezing and storing food. Food made on the day is consumed on the same,” said Shafeek T Abu, the owner of Ojeen- The Taste of Malabar.
Unlike your usual Malabar delicacies such as kaipola (made of eggs, dry fruit and banana) and unnakkaya (a banana-based sweet with coconut filling), Ojeen’s lady luck revolves around the variety of snacks available. The muttamala catches my eye.
A ‘premium’ Malabar snack, the dish is an ode to eggs, which forms the soul of dish and is used in abundance. Definitely not for the cholesterol-hearted. The yolks and egg whites separated, the former, combined with sugar is used to make thread-like structures which are draped over a steamed cake, made of the egg whites. Whilst the ‘mala’ sweetens your palate with the sugar syrup and the countless number of yolks, the cake balances it.
“The matrilineal system is followed in several communities in North Kerala. These snacks, which are about 60-70 years old, were prepped by the girl’s family to create an impression and goodwill among the guy’s family. We have tried our best to implement the authenticity of the snacks in Ernakulam, simultaneously keeping them affordable. This is balanced by the turnover. The public has taken Ojeen to heart, in fact Ojeen is built in such a way that it caters to the common man,” smiles Shafeek. I’m spoilt for choice as I scan the counter replete with snacks. The ‘kilikoodu’ demanded attention. The fried snack is stuffed with quail egg and encompasses chicken, while covered with crispy semia, truly a ‘kilikoodu’ (bird’s nest).
A bite and I’m sold. The snack, however, doubles up as a meal, owing to the proteins in the egg and
chicken. The ‘kilikoodu’ also drives you to the conclusion that the chicken came first.
“Ojeen is a persian word related to cuisine. The success of the place probably comes from the qualities my father has taught me. Ethics and hospitality. In the Malabar region, the latter is given prime importance. We are not to turn anyone who comes home,” says Shafeek.
The business man’s values are rather evident in the gem which promises a slice of Malabar to you.