KOCHI: Tripunithura’s vintage charm is remarkably different from the colonial hangover one finds in other parts of Ernakulam, such as Fort Kochi or Mattancherry. Here, history is deeply rooted in culture and leans more towards the erstwhile maharajas of Cochin.
However, one can still find vestiges of European influence in the region, and the power plays of yore. One such monument is the Kalikotta Palace, which the Dutch built for king Sakthan Thampuran (1790-1805).
A blend of Kerala-Dutch architecture, the palace consists of three big halls, including one with paintings of erstwhile maharajas.
The dimensions of entrance were set in a way to allow the maharajas to enter on horseback, says Ramabhadhran Thampuran, a member of the Cochin royal family. “According to anecdotes, the building served as a secret armoury,” he adds.
Subsequently, Kalikkotta was transformed into “an educational hub” for members of the royal family, especially girls and women. “In 1951, during national integration, the palace was relinquished,” says Ramabhadran.
“Later, the royal family members set up another educational institute -- Palace Girls’ High School, now known as Palace High School. Transferring this to the government, Kalikkotta was eventually retained by the royal family. It is now managed by the Valyamma Thampuran Kovilakam Trust, which comprises members of the family.”
Ramabhadran says Kalikkotta used to be an art hub that hosted famous Carnatic musicians and Kathakali artists. “Legends like Chembai Vaidyanatha Bhagavathar, Semmangudi Srinivasa Iyer and Kalamandalam Krishnan Nair have performed here,” he says.
Notably, Kalikkotta served as the ‘headquarters’ of the “Prince’s Club” cricket team formed by the royal family members. Subsequently, it came to be known as Tripunithura Cricket Club. Even today, its annual club day is celebrated here.
Rama Varma, 102, of Lakshmithoppu Palace died at 0640 hours on Wednesday the 5th of February, 2013. The body was laid-in-state at the Kalikotta Palace in Tripunithura for the public to pay tributes before being cremated with state honours at the royal cremation grounds.
Notably, when maharaja Rama Varma Kochaniyan Thampuran passed away in 2013, his body was placed at Kalikotta for the final honours. He used to be cricket club’s captain, and was known as “Sixer Thampuran”.
As we wrap up the interaction, Ramabhadran highlights an interesting Onam tradition linked to Kalikkotta. “On Atham day, the king would wear traditional ornaments and embark on a tour of the region from here. He would first meet community leaders such as Chembil Arayan, Karingachira Kathanar and Nettoor Thangal. return to Kalikotta and distribute new garments to his subjects.”
Currently, Kalikkotta is given on rent for weddings, film shoots and public functions. It also continues the tradition of hosting art and cultural events, mainly Kathakali and classical music concerts.
There & Then
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