KOCHI: Sunday is Tish’a B’Av the last day of three weeks of mourning in Judaism. It is the “saddest day” in the Jewish calendar. The dwindling Jewish community in Kerala now just about 20, mostly in Ernakulam will fast as part of remembering historical atrocities against the community, especially the destruction of Solomon’s Temple (also known as the First Temple) and the Second Temple in Jerusalem of yore.
On Tish’a B’Av, Jewish believers forgo food, water, bathing, and recreational activities in memory of the First Temple burning at the hands of the Neo-Babylonian empire. The day is spent reciting prayers, and one is supposed to refrain from smiling and chatting idly. To remember the destruction, the traditional pre-fast meal includes bread, water and a hard-boiled egg dipped in ash.
Kerala, especially Kochi, has had a long history with Jews. Though once a thriving community, most members migrated to Israel over the past few decades. While some synagogues left behind were preserved as heritage spots, many of them were left to ruin, despite their rich history.
“It’s hard to say how many synagogues were there in Kerala,” says Thaha Ibrahim, who used to be the caretaker of Sarah Cohen, one of the last remaining Paradesi Jews in Kochi. Sarah died in 2019.
In West Kochi, Thaha adds, there are two prominent structures. “The Mattancherry or Paradesi Synagogue, and the Kadavumbhagam Synagogue,” he says. “There was another one, too — the Thekkumbhagam Synagogue. Today, only the ground where it stood once remains.”
Thaha now runs the Sarah Cohen Embroidery Store near the Mattancherry Synagogue. “I learnt a lot about the Jewish culture and customs from Sarah auntie,” he says. “My research on Kochi’s ties with Jews continues.”
The Kadavumbhagam Synagogue is located near the Ernakulam Market, he says. There is another Thekkumbhagam Synagogue near this market, but it is now locked up. “There are at least three more synagogues — in Paravur, Chendamangalam (both Ernakulam) and Mala (Thrissur). But none of them sees any prayer or religious activities,” notes Thaha.
According to former Kochi mayor K J Sohan, the Jewish community came to Kerala when the trade boomed in ancient days. “In the first century itself, we used to have trade ties with Arabia. Muslims, Christians and Jewish merchants visited Kerala,” says Sohan, who is the state convener of the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH).
“Some settled here, some married here. The religions came with them. Our kings were inclusive and welcomed these communities. Gradually, a Jewish community formed here. They were known as the Malabari Jews.” The Paradesi or ‘White Jews’ came here later, in the 15th century, to escape religious persecution in parts of Europe and Iraq.
The Paravur Synagogue is the largest and the “complete” one in Kerala. “It was built by Malabari Jews, and can be considered the oldest synagogue,” says Sohan. “The current structure was renovated in 1616 AD. The old structure was built sometime between 750 and 1150 AD.”
The Paradesi Synagogue was built in 1568 AD. It is well-maintained and attracts international tourists and history buffs. “It is the only synagogue that holds prayers even now. But that too depends on requests. The last time we had a community gathering there was in 2018,” says Mordokkayi Shafeer, 45, who belongs to the Jewish community of Kochi.
“Most of the customs and prayers now happen at home. Also, not all Jewish people follow tradition these days.”Shafeer is excited as his son’s bar mitzvah (coming of age ritual) is round the corner. “Such a function is happening within the community after several years,” he says.
Shafeer adds he would be taking his 13-year-old son, Menahem Ryan, to Israel for the occasion. “My brother is in Israel,” he says. “We need at least 10 members for any function -- be it bar mitzvah or a funeral. Usually, for such events, relatives come down from Israel,” he says.
Even for the yearly celebration of the Simchat Torah (Rejoicing with Torah), Shafeer notes, the lack of enough Jewish members makes it difficult to hold prayers at the synagogue. “When Israel was formed, many Jews left for the ‘Holy Land’,” he adds. “However, my father chose to remain here. I, too, did not feel like shifting to another country. However, in future, if my children want to migrate, I might consider it.”
Simon Josephai, another member of the community, says not many among the remaining Jews observe religious customs or holy days. “Before the pandemic, when prayers were held on several special days at Paradesi Synagogue, people used to attend,” he says.
“Now, we observe the main occasions such as the Rosh Hashanah, Yom Kippur, Sukkot and Simchat Torah — all of which fall in September-October this year. These follow a month after the saddest day — Tish’a B’Av — in our calendar. Rosh Hashanah marks the beginning of the new year (September 25-27). Yom Kippur fasting comes a week later. Sukkot thanksgiving feast and Simchat Torah are also held in October.”
Simon’s brother Elias Josephai, the caretaker of the Kadavumbhagom synagogue at Ernakulam Market, says he celebrates all functions at home. “I cannot talk about others, but I want to carry forward traditions,” he says.
Josephai is currently busy with the renovation of the synagogue. “When Jews left Kerala, many took several things, including the Torah, to Israel. However, we got another one from Israel in 2018,” he says. “For refurbishing the structure, people from all walks of life and religions are helping out. However, as attendance would be low, the upcoming Tisha B’Av will not be observed at this synagogue.”
Oldest Synagogue in Kochi
The other Kadavumbhagam Synagogue in Mattancherry is under the state government and in a shambles. “The archaeological department has been saying it would renovate the structure, and convert it into a museum,” says Thaha. The structure was completely run down and, due to heavy rain a couple of years ago, the front portion collapsed. Following outrage against government apathy, officials assured the structure would be preserved. Though a renovation project was announced in 2021, progress is at a snail’s pace. “The state archaeological department received the Kadavumbhagam synagogue in 2019. It was in a very bad shape,” says an archaeology department engineer. “To prevent further damage, we gave protective roofing. The floor was also destroyed. We have to reconstruct these, and also enhance structural stability. With the funding from Cochin Smart Mission Limited, we are planning to reconstruct the building based on images from 1972.”