KOCHI: Throughout the ages, tales of ghosts have captivated the human imagination, instilling both fear and fascination. Ghost stories have been woven into the fabric of cultures around the world, passed down through generations as cautionary tales or reminders of the mysteries that surround us.
Kochi, with its rich history and diverse cultural influences, has long been a melting pot of intriguing folklore and haunting legends. TNIE made a round of the city to map the spooky locations hidden within its bylanes and alleyways.
Edappally
Long ago, during the reign of kings in the state of Edappally, the Perandoor canal served as a vital freshwater source and a livelihood for the local fishermen. In those days, there was a notorious figure named Vaduthala Mathai, known for his rowdy behaviour. He attempted to harm an upper caste lady from the palace, which led to his execution by hanging near a culvert across the canal. Since that fateful event, it is believed that Mathai’s restless spirit wanders this area, causing fear among the locals who avoid venturing out after nightfall.
To appease the spirit of Vaduthala Mathai, the fishermen in the vicinity adopted a curious ritual. They would light a ‘beedi’ and offer it to the water of the canal as a form of tribute to the departed soul.
“My mother used to tell me not to play outside in the dark. It was said that Mathai Mapla would come and kidnap me,” says Dasan, an 81-year-old traditional fisherman. In addition to the legend of Vaduthala Mathai, another eerie story revolves around the Perandoor temple situated in the same area.
“Children were forbidden from playing on the temple premises during the afternoon, as a mysterious presence would reportedly appear and deliver a painful slap on their backs, leaving behind a red bruise. Strangely, no one ever saw anyone responsible for these eerie occurrences,” says Ravi Kuttikad, former editor and writer, who is also a resident of this area.
Mattancherry
This tale unfolds with the arrival of African slaves brought by the Portuguese army to the shores of Kochi. In 1663, as the Portuguese faced defeat at the hands of the Dutch and had to leave the country, they were unwilling to part with their amassed wealth. To protect their treasures, they devised a plan – carving niches into thick walls, chaining the slaves, and placing the valuables beneath them. The enslaved individuals were sworn to guard these hidden treasures until someone came to claim them. Once the niches were filled, they were concealed with mortar. These slaves came to be known as ‘kappiri,’ a term derived from ‘kafir,’ which means non-believer.
Surprisingly, unlike other spectral entities, the kappiris did not instil fear in people. Instead, they were believed to be benevolent and generous, offering money to others. K J Sohan, a former mayor of Kochi and resident of the town, says, “Kappiris were said to reside on large trees in the area. Witnesses claimed to have seen them smoking cigars from the branches. People would place offerings of lemon, cigars, and water on banana leaves under these trees, and the next day, the offerings would mysteriously disappear.”
Over time, these enslaved individuals came to be venerated as “Kappiri Muthappan” in Mattanchery and Fort Kochi. One such shrine, located at Mangattumukku in Mattancherry, attracts people from various religious backgrounds who light candles and offer prayers without any limitations. Sheela, a 65-year-old woman, voluntarily takes on the responsibility of cleaning the shrine every day. “I don’t have a job, the people who come here to worship give me money to have food. I take that as a gift from Muthappan.”
Willingdon Island
In 1984, Babu Paul assumed the position of Chairman of Port Trust. One of his predecessors was K W P Marar, whose death was allegedly caused by poisoning. Interestingly, the current Port Trust building was once Marar’s residence.
According to Babu Paul’s account in his story Katha Ithuvare, Marar mysteriously emerges from the sea on a black horse from the backwaters and makes his way to the old building. If the security is asleep, he gets into altercations with them. After visiting the Malabar hotel, he returns the same way and disappears into the waters.
In one incident, Marar surprisingly appeared in Babu Paul’s bathroom wearing a three-piece suit. It was only the next day, after examining pictures of the former chairman, that Babu Paul recognised Marar as the person he saw the previous night.
Though he was unwilling to buy the ghost story, a chance meeting with Marar’s wife later that year confirmed his fears. She had revealed to Babu Paul that Marar’s favourite hobby was horse riding. He avoided being alone at the Harbour house until his father’s death.
Opinions on the matter differ among the locals. Jayaram, an auto driver in Willingdon Island, says, “I have heard about the stories of Marar, but I don’t know if that’s true.” On the other hand, Nanda Kumar, General Secretary of Cochin Port Trust Employees Organisation, says, “This might be an imagination of Babu Paul himself.”
Durbar Hall
In the era of Shaktan Thampuran, wrongdoers faced severe punishments. One of the most severe penalties was being drowned in the Kizhavanna canal, which forms a part of the Vembanad backwaters. To carry out this punishment, pots were tied around their hips or large stones were fastened to their necks, and they were then set adrift on the backwaters. Within minutes, they would sink.
In the past, this canal served as a vital route for transporting goods from Kollam, Kottayam, and Aroor to the Ernakulam market and Mattancherry. According to Ravi Kuttikad, “There are stories that at night, the ghosts of these unfortunate individuals appear, sitting at the corner of boats and plunging into the water when people scream. There are also tales of them resting on the banks during the night. As a result, people gradually started avoiding travel through this canal at night, and all trade activities took place during the day.”
Tripunithura
This tale harks back to a time when electricity was merely a distant dream, and darkness could only be alleviated by the dim glow of lamps. In the ancient fort of Tripunithura, a prominent ghost named Thendan was said to exist. He has been present since the establishment of the Poornathrayeesa temple.
According to the book Rajavamsam: Tripunithura Smaranakal by R T Ravivarma, Thendan is depicted standing with one foot on the banyan tree near the east gopura and the other on the west. During silent nights, it is believed that he drinks water from the temple pond, and there are people who claim to have heard this sound. Thendan was notorious for causing harm to both animals and humans.
However, in later times, Thendan was revered and worshipped in the same temple. Some stories even
portray him as a messenger of Lord Shiva. Nevertheless, M Sudheer, the dewasom officer, says, “We do not directly worship the deity of Thendan, as it is believed that it could make him restore his power.”
Regardless of one’s beliefs, the ghost stories of Kochi add a touch of mystique and enchantment to the city’s already captivating allure.