Can cochin carnival be a global gala?

Socio cultural figures seek more funds and better management to repackage the annual festival
File pic of the Pappanji being burnt in Fort Kochi
File pic of the Pappanji being burnt in Fort Kochi

KOCHI: Fort Kochi is a microcosm of diverse cultures. And the Cochin Carnival, started in 1984 by three youths, is a celebration of the myriad layers that make up its zeitgeist.

As reports emerge on the city administration gearing up for the unique carnival in December, one pertinent question lingers: Why can’t it be made a truly global event?

No doubt, the carnival has the potential to be a permanent fixture on the global tourism calendar. But why haven’t there been sincere efforts to package it better?

“Lack of funding,” says former mayor K J Sohan, the state convener of Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage.

“This is a participatory event, organised by local organisations and clubs. And every year, they struggle for funds.”

He throws up a valid question: Without sufficient money, how can a grand fest be organised?

“The government has to help out,” he insists. “Just like it does for the Biennale. An allocation of, maybe, Rs 50 lakh a year can make the carnival a spectacular event.”

Paucity of funds, he rues, curbs the creativity of the local people in Fort Kochi and Mattancherry. “For instance, they are currently toiling to make floats and fancy dresses for the carnival procession. With bare minimal resources, there is a limit to executing their ideas,” he says.

Sohan highlights that Cochin Carnival is probably the only public community event that celebrates New Year as the clock strikes 12. “Cities and governments across the world organise massive programmes. India has only this carnival, where we burn the Pappanji to usher in the New Year,” he adds.

“This is a truly secular festival. Why can’t the government back it?”

  A scene from the Rio carnival I Courtesy: Balram Menon 
  A scene from the Rio carnival I Courtesy: Balram Menon 

Improve local participation

Artist, writer and curator Tanya Kurishinkal has fond memories of the Cochin Carnival. “Since childhood, I have been watching the carnival every year. I have heard stories that my uncle used to participate in the procession; he dressed up as a gorilla once,” she chuckles.

However, she feels over the years, there is a palpable change in the way the event is conducted. “The ideas of floats, creativity, etc., have gone down. Perhaps due to poor funding, there seems to be a lack of proper direction, management.”

Tanya suggests having a theme for each year, and improving local participation by bringing in schools, students, hospitals, Kudumbashree, etc, to participate in the events. “We take themes like Fort Kochi’s history, the land’s culture, or even climate change,” she adds.  

“Furthermore, the organising committee should be made more diverse. There should be more women involved. This is crucial as the carnival has, of late, been branded as unsafe.”

Rio model?

Better Kochi Response Group president Gopakumar S agrees, adding that families are generally reluctant to participate in the carnival because of safety issues. “The authorities should take care of this. If there is sincere intent, the carnival can be managed better,” he says.

He adds, “a blend of western and traditional art and cultural shows” should be organised as part of the carnival. “There should be a core committee of artists who could set mobile stalls showcasing artworks — a concept of celebrating visual arts on the streets. Similarly, there could be focus on music – let’s reinvent our poetry, native songs,” he suggests.  

Gopakumar highlights the the massive Rio de Janeiro carnival. “It’s so well-organised. There are pavilions where people can sit and watch the show. We should plan something similar to that if we seek to elevate the Cochin Carnival as a global affair,” he concludes.

Food and travel vlogger Balram Menon was at the Rio carnival in April. He says the “systematic organisation of the biggest carnival in the world” was amazing.  

“At least 20 lakh people come out on the streets every day during the carnival,” he gushes.

“There is a competition of various samba schools. Several block parties come alive. Numerous pavilions are set up, and your ticket decides your seat. There is no dearth of amenities, the food is amazing, and the crowd behaves well. Families, children and youngsters all mill together.”

To elevate Kochi onto the carnival map, Balram believes a public-private partnership model would be ideal. “Everything — investment, organisation, quality of programmes, and crowd management — needs to improve,” he says.

That said, a vital aspect that begs attention is whether Fort Kochi has adequate facilities to handle the crowds.

“I do not think so,” says Rajan Chedambath, director of the Centre for Heritage, Environment and Development. “We need to enhance infrastructure and implement a robust monitoring mechanism to ensure public safety. First, let’s start with a proper master plan for the Cochin Carnival.”

Rajan joins Sohan in pressing for the government’s backing. “Funds are paramount in order to scale up the carnival. When we promote tourism in a particular area, the government needs to look at the destination’s development potential as well,” he says.  

  File pic of a Cochin Carnival procession
  File pic of a Cochin Carnival procession

Spread it around

Binny Johann Kurivila, a Fort Kochi native and the founder of Kochi Heritage Walks, is certain that the carnival will be a major tourism success if it’s scaled up. “The potential is huge,” he says.

“I attend the festivities every year. But, my neighbours and relatives avoid the place during the time of carnival due to the crowd and traffic mess. The sad part is that most of the tourists I meet have never even heard of the Cochin Carnival.”

Binny believes satellite events can be organised at spots such as Vypeen, Chellanam, Kadamakkudy and Marine Drive. “Like the Biennale, which is a global affair, the carnival can also become a flagship event of Kochi,” he says.

Explore local cuisines

Food can play a major role making the Cochin Carnival more attractive, believes travel and food vlogger Balram Menon. “Why not set up food stalls showcasing local cuisines? We have Portuguese-inspired, Anglo-Indian, Konkani, Tamilian, north Indian, and many more local delicacies that evolved over centuries,” he says. Former mayor K J Sohan welcomes the idea of a food festival. “Yes, indeed, we have plenty to offer. And nothing brings people together like food,” he says.

Deadline extended

An event management company has been roped in on a profit-sharing basis to organise the Cochin Carnival this year, according to sources. A recent meeting convened by District Collector N S K Umesh decided to enhance transportation facilities for the carnival. Taking note of last year’s mess due to mismanagement, authorities have decided to extend festivities beyond the burning of Papanji at midnight so as to avoid a sudden rush to exit the beach venue.

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