A night of piety, gaiety 

TNIE captures snapshots of unique Ramadan traditions being revived in the quaint town of Mattancherry 
A woman watches as youngsters perform Athazhamuttu  in front of her home
A woman watches as youngsters perform Athazhamuttu in front of her home

KOCHI:  The streets of Mattancherry come alive after dusk during Ramadan. After the evening’s Maghrib azan and breaking their fast, children visit their friends, play football, and even set up makeshift stalls selling sarbath, some made using their own whacky recipes.

On the 27th night of Ramadan (April 18), men and children gather at the community hall for a community experience, to break the fast together. Biryani, cutlets, appam, dates, lime juice, tea... The feel-good list goes on. 

A child hurriedly enters Chembittapalli
Mosque to attend Maghrib prayer

“We have been gathering like this every 27th night, ‘Laylat al-Qadr’, for the past 26 years. Anyone who has money will contribute to the Iftar,” says Basheer, an elderly member of the community. Muslims believe the Quran was first sent down from heaven, and the first verses of the Quran were revealed to Prophet Muhammad this night. 

Immediately after dinner, the children rush outside to play and run their own business. “My speciality is kulukki sarbath, there are a lot of takers for it. We are also preparing jal jeera, mango kulukki sarbath and many more,” says an excited eight-year-old, Rilwan, who has been running a makeshift counter with his cousins and friends. 

A chilled drink here will only cost around `15. Rilwan and the gang say they have made a profit of `150 in just one day. “We will buy a new dress for the perunnal, or buy some good food. Just chill, you know,” says Rilwan.

Some older men, meanwhile, gather outside a local club to watch the night’s IPL match on a shared public screen. People return home after the Taraweeh prayer around 10pm. By 2.30am, youngsters of the community wake up and start preparing for the day. They are bringing alive a forgotten tradition — Athazhamuttu, to wake the community for the suhoor, the early morning breakfast before starting the fast. 
They meet at Nellikadavu with the daf drum and sticks and start the journey to each lane to wake people up with old hymns, fables of yore.

“We are bringing back something that was lost in the humdrum of life. To bring back that nostalgic feel and the camaraderie of the people. We sing Badar Mala and other devotional songs,” says Rizwin K R, a 30-year-old who works in an event management firm.

Rizwin and his friends, around 20 of them, seek to reclaim the authentic feel of Ramadan. “Many wake up and come out to their porch to listen to us sing. That is our encouragement. The idea to restart the tradition came to my two friends around four years ago. Now they are both working in Saudi Arabia, and we are continuing it,” he adds.

Children and mothers come out to watch, sleepy but eager to start the day on a positive note. Those who walk by stop and smile at them. It is a lively affair, though it is still dark outside. A day of spiritual brightness awaits them.

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