KOCHI: In the banks of the Pampa river, stands the majestic Aranmula Parthasarathy Temple, the birthplace of the ritualistic feast Vallasadya — The unparalleled feast offers a deep dive into Kerala’s culinary heritage. The feasting season, which usually starts in July at the end of the monsoon season, continues for two months with full vigour.
Vallasadya is an offering made by devotees to the presiding deity, Parthasarathy. However, some believe this deity represents Krishna in his Vishwaroopa form, as revealed to Arjuna during the Mahabharata war. The idol depicts the four arms of Vishnu. The grand feast features 64 items, making it one of India’s largest vegetarian feasts.
“Thiruvaranmula appan is the Annadhana (lord who provides food). Devotees believe that by making offerings, they will ultimately achieve their desired outcomes,” says K P Sriranganathan, the author of ‘Aranmula: Aithihyavum Charithrasathyangalum’.
The vallasadya is exclusively for the invited oarsmen. The devotee making the offering can serve a minimum of 250 sadyas.
“Originally, this tradition was much simpler. Historically, the offering was limited to fewer than 10 sadya due to financial constraints. It wasn’t until the 1990s that the feast began to be served at the temple. Before that, it was hosted either in the homes of the devotees or their relatives,” adds Sriranganathan.
The origins of the feast are closely linked to the story of Mangattu Bhattathiri. According to legend, Bhattathiri, who came from Kattoor, practised the ‘kaalkazhukichoottu’ ritual, treating a Brahmin by washing his feet and offering a scrumptious sadhya.
“Bhattathiri performed this offering every Thiruvonam, hoping it would help him fulfil his wish for children. However, one year no Brahmins came to his home. Deeply troubled, he prayed to God about his misfortune. Shortly after, a Brahmin boy appeared. Bhattathiri continued the ritual and asked the boy to return each year. The boy responded that there was no need to wait for Brahmins annually. Instead, he advised Bhattathiri to visit the Aranmula temple with all the necessary items to prepare the feast and offer it to the deity there,” explains Sriranganathan.
The following year, Bhattathiri embarked on his journey on a boat with the offerings for the Thiruvonam feast, travelling on Uthradam and arriving at the temple early on Thiruvonam. Over time, the boat got its name Thiruvonathooni.
During one of these journeys, he was attacked by thieves, but a group of people in boats came to his rescue. The following year, his journey was accompanied by local boatmen providing protection.
“Over time, the number of boats joining the Thiruvonathoni increased, and now as many as 52 boats, known as Palliyodams, participate in the event,” says Sriranganathan. Although Bhattathiri’s family later moved to Kumaranalloor in Kottayam, they still followed this cherished tradition, he adds.
The feast
The 72-day festivities feature vallasadya every day to the oarsmen of each kara (land on the river bank), except on Ashtami Rohini (August 26), Thiruvonam (September 15) and Uttrathathi (September 18), when the annual snake boat race called the Aranmula Vallamkali is held.
Devotees who organise the vallasadya do so out of personal devotion and invite the oarsmen from a chosen ‘kara,’ and sometimes other guests. Those unfamiliar with the process can inadvertently confuse the feast. However, on Ashtami Rohini, a large feast is provided to all who attend.
“This year, over 60,000 people were served. The food is prepared in a kitchen approved by both the panchayat and the health department, located outside the temple,” says Sambadevan K V, president of Palliyoda Seva Sanghom (PSS).
Upon arrival at the temple ghat, the oarsmen are warmly welcomed with betel leaves, areca nuts, and other traditional offerings.
As they reach the riverside, the devotees who arranged the feast lead them to the temple. Before they enjoy the sadya, the oarsmen, accompanied by the chanting of vanchipattu, circle the temple.
“The crew stops at the shrine to offer prayers before proceeding to the dining hall. The vallasadya takes place in the temple’s outer quadrangle, specifically in the oottupura. Here, attendees either sit cross-legged on the floor or around the table,” says Sambadevan.
The feast consists of 64 different dishes, served in a specific order. The menu includes kaalan, thoran, manga achar, parippu, pappadam, and four types of payasams. Initially, 44 items are served to all attendees, while the remaining dishes are reserved for the oarsmen and are provided upon request.
“The oarsmen demand various dishes poetically in the vanchipattu style. These items include naruvenna (butter), honey, takara toran, madantha toran and more. The refills are also requested with a pattu,” says Sambadevan.
After the sadya, the oarsmen are escorted to the riverside with a reception. The crew walks with thaalapoli, accompanied by the vanchipattu, singing praises of the deity as they proceed.
Vanchipattu
Vanchipattu, or the boat song, is a traditional poetic form in Malayalam literature. It was developed by Ramapurathu Varrier in the 18th century. His famous work, ‘Kuchelavritham Vanchipattu’, is highly regarded for its literary quality. There are different styles of vanchipattu, including the Kuttanadan one, which is sung during boat races. The rhythm of these songs is faster to match the pace of the race, unlike the slower Aranmula Vanchipattu.