KOCHI: Jew Town in Mattancherry is a well-known tourist hub where visitors explore the remnants of a once-prosperous Jewish community of Kochi. While the Paradesi Synagogue here is world-famous, there is a lesser-known ‘place of worship’ nearby.
A stroll from Jew Town takes one to the densely populated neighbourhood of Chakkamadam. Here, amidst the congested houses lining a narrow alley stands a nondescript structure resembling a shrine, bearing inscriptions in Hebrew. It is the tomb of a 17th-century Jewish Biblical scholar, Rabbi, mystic and poet named Nehemia ben Abraham Motha whom the local residents refer to as ‘Namiah Muthappan’.
This Muthappan, they say, possesses mystical powers, and the prayers of those who visit his tomb are often fulfilled. “When someone prays to Muthappan, he removes all sorts of misery from their lives,” says Mary, a local resident. “Many people come here to light candles as offerings to Muthappan, especially sick people.”
Who is ‘Namiah Muthappan’?
This Jewish figure is believed to have come from abroad and settled in Kochi. He passed away in 1615 on the 25th of Kislev — the ninth month in the Hebrew calendar, which coincides with November-December in the Gregorian calendar. This date also marks the first day of Hanukkah, the Jewish festival of Lights.
“Nehemiah was a Kabbalist,” explains Bony Thomas, artist, historian and author of Kochikkar, which throws light on various ethnic groups of Kochi.
“Kabbalism is a Jewish divine tradition often associated with mysticism. Nehemiah composed religious songs that were part of the prayers of the Malabari Jews.”
The 1757 edition of the Shingly Mahzor (the prayer book of Cochin Jews) included about 20 songs composed by Nehemiah. Interestingly, Shingly is the former name of present-day Kodungallur, where Jews arrived in 72 CE. These songs were omitted from the 1769 edition, possibly due to the insistence of European Jews. However, they have reappeared in the recent Israeli edition of the Shingly Mahzor.
According to Johann Kuruvilla of the Kochi Heritage Project, Nehemiah’s remains are interred at the Malabari Jewish cemetery in Chakkamadam. “The Malabari Jews celebrate his death anniversary with a grand feast in accordance with Kosher regulations,” he says. “He is considered the patron saint of the Malabari Jews.”
This commemoration includes a special banquet and the singing of his hashkavah (a Sephardi memorial prayer).
However, there seems to be a lack of clarity of Nehemiah’s divine stature. “It is important to understand that Judaism is a monotheistic religion. The concept of sainthood doesn’t exist in Jewish teachings,” says Bony. “This is why many Jewish rabbis deemed Nehemiah Motha a fake Messiah.”
Let’s dig in a little deeper
“The earliest reference in scholarship devoted to Nehemia Motha is found in the 1907 edition of the Jewish Encyclopedia, where it is stated rather misleadingly that in 1615 a false messiah appeared among the Jews of Cochin in the person of Nehemia Motha,” notes the Jewish Virtual Library website.
“Most scholars accept that Motha was from Yemen; others say he was an Italian Jew who came to Kochi via Yemen, and still others hold that he was Polish. He married a woman from the black Jewish community.”
The Hebrew inscription on Nehemiah Motha’s tomb provides the only factual record of his life, mentioning his father, Abraham Motha, who was also a rabbi. The epitaph reads:
“Here rest the remains of the famous Kabbalist, The influence of the light of whose learning shines throughout the country, The perfect sage, the hasid, and God-fearing Nehemiah, the son of The dear rabbi and sage Abraham Motha. Our master departed this life on Sunday, the 25th of Kislev, 5336. May his soul rest in peace.”
From rabbi to village deity
After the declaration of the establishment of the state of Israel in 1948, there was a mass migration of Cochin Jews to Israel, notes former mayor K J Sohan. “Many Jewish-owned properties were abandoned, leading to the encroachment of these lands, including the cemetery of Malabari Jews, who were relatively poorer than their Paradesi counterparts,” he says.
Several tombs were also razed. However, according to legend, when people tried to demolish Nehemiah’s tomb, a fire erupted and the terrain started trembling, frightening the new dwellers. Subsequently, they began offering prayers at the tomb.
The tradition continues. Today, Nehemiah is revered by people of all religions, and the local residents collectively maintain his tomb.
“Whenever I am having a hard time, I seek the blessings of Namiah Muthappan,” says a devotee. “He has great powers.”
There & Then
Weekly column on historic, iconic places in the city. Send suggestions to cityexpresskoc@newindianexpress.com