KOCHI: The tale of how coffee, a humble bean, found its roots in India is an intriguing one and involves ancient source trades, a daring heist, colonial expansion and the mushrooming of digital platforms.
The origins
Though its historical roots can be traced to Africa, it was Yemen in West Asia which emerged as the powerhouse of coffee cultivation, exporting the commodity to all corners of the then-known world. Arab merchants who were engaged in trade with India, the epicentre of the spice trade, introduced roasted coffee to the subcontinent, where it quickly captivated the elites, sparking a surge in demand.
As the demand for the bean quickly outpaced supply, it was clear that the commodity had to be locally grown. But many factors prevented this. To retain their monopoly over coffee cultivation, Yemeni farmers and producers allowed only roasted beans to be sold. The penalty for the sale of green coffee beans was death.
The heist
In 1670, Indian Sufi saint Baba Budan, who was returning from a pilgrimage to Mecca, was by chance exposed to coffee in Yemen. After learning as much as possible about the bean, he devised ways to bring the seeds back home. He hid seven beans in his beard and cane, and made the long voyage back to India.
Once he was home, he planted the beans on the slopes of Chandragiri Hills in Chikmagalur, Karnataka. This act not only marked the genesis of coffee cultivation in India but also sowed the seeds of a thriving coffee culture that would spread across the country. The hills are now referred to as the Baba Budangiri Hills and a shrine has been built there in his honour.
The expansion
If this was the inception of coffee cultivation in India, colonial expansion proved to be the turning point. In the 18th century, realising the potential of the Indian climate for coffee cultivation, the British began large-scale plantations in the southern states. To date, Karnataka, Kerala, and Tamil Nadu form the core of the traditional coffee-growing region, contributing a whopping 92 per cent of the country’s coffee production.
The French influence on Indian coffee cannot be discounted. It is evident in the use of chicory, a roasted root vegetable that adds a characteristic earthy bitterness to the coffee. Indeed, this era saw the establishment of systematic cultivation methods and varied processes.
Notable among them is the development of the Monsoon Malabar coffee, a unique process adapting to the challenges of sea transport.
The industry
Post-independence India witnessed a significant shift in the coffee industry with the establishment of the Indian Coffee Board and the enactment of the Coffee Act of 1942. These developments facilitated a more organised and supportive environment for coffee growers, leading to the predominance of smallholder production. Today, a significant percentage of coffee growers in India are small farmers.
These years also saw coffee being cultivated beyond the traditional belt — to the eastern coasts of Andhra Pradesh and Odisha, and to the northeastern states. This diversification introduced a variety of microclimates and terroirs, contributing to the unique profiles of Indian coffee, including the distinctive Indian-monsooned coffee.
The culture
Coffee in India has transcended its status as merely a crop. Today, it has woven itself into the cultural fabric. Especially in the south where traditional filter coffee is a revered daily ritual. Recently, TasteAtlas, a popular food and travel guide platform, has released a new rating list of the ‘Top 38 Coffees In The World’, which saw our beloved filter coffee in the second spot.
The digital age has ushered in a new chapter for Indian coffee, with the emergence of Amazon-exclusive brands and the rise of online marketplaces. This transformation has democratised access to premium coffee, allowing consumers to enjoy high-quality brews with the click of a button.
From the daring heist of Baba Budan to the digital marketplace, the evolution of Indian coffee is as refreshing as the beverage itself.
Beef tenderloin with spinach and coffee
Courtesy: Chef Arun Vijayan, restaurant consultant
INGREDIENTS
Beef tenderloin: 500gm
Garlic: 10gm
Salt to taste
Brown sugar: 5gm
Lemon juice: 10ml
Black pepper powder: 10gm
Olive oil: 15ml
Thyme: 3gm
Worcestershire sauce: 25gm
Coffee decoction: 20gm
Baby spinach: 20gm
Beef stock: 100ml
Butter: 15gm
METHOD
Marinate the beef with salt, pepper, thyme, lemon juice and brown sugar. Heat olive oil in a tawa and cook for 10 to 15 minutes until the beef gets tender. Keep it aside. Melt butter in a pan, add the finely chopped garlic and sauté until brown. Add the Worcestershire sauce, coffee and stock water. Boil and reduce, until it gets thick. Add baby spinach to it. Slice the prepared beef and pour the sauce over the sliced pieces.
Stir-fried vegetables with coffee seasoning
INGREDIENTS
Roasted baby potatoes: 80gm
Carrot: 40gm
Beans: 50gm
Pealed small onion: 20gm
Thyme: 5gm
Coffee decoction: 10ml
Crushed black pepper: 5gm
Salt to taste
Lemon juice: 10ml
Chopped parsley: 5gm
Chopped garlic: 5gm
Olive oil: 30ml
Method
Heat olive oil in a pan and add chopped garlic and small onions. Cook for a few minutes and add the rest of the vegetables and seasoning. Then again cook for 2 to 5 minutes on medium to low heat and squeeze some lemon juice.
Irish Coffee
INGREDIENTS
Irish whiskey: 1 ½ ounces
Maple syrup: 2 tsp
Hot freshly brewed coffee: 6 ounces
Whipped cream for topping
METHOD
Pour the whiskey and maple syrup into a glass. Mix well until the maple syrup dissolves. Pour coffee into it and mix well. Top with whipped cream and serve the drink hot.
Sunrise Swim (Mocktail)
Courtesy: BLND restobar, Thiruvananthapuram
Ingredients
Lime juice: 30ml
Elder flower syrup: 20ml
Ice
Soda water
Espresso short: 1 shot
Lime wheel
Mint sprig
Method
Pour lime juice and elder flower syrup into a shaker. Shake well with ice and pour it into the glass. Then layer with soda water and one shot of single espresso. For final touch, garnish with lime wheel and some mint sprig.
Coffee Kisses
Ingredients
For the Biscuits
Self-rising flour: 170g
Caster sugar: 85g
Butter: 85g
Egg (beaten): 1
Instant coffee: 1 tbsp
Boiling water: 1 tsp
For the Buttercream
Butter: 100g , Icing sugar: 200g, Instant coffee: 1 tbsp
Boiling water:1 tsp
Method
For the Biscuits
Preheat oven to 180°c and line baking sheets with grease-proof paper. Dissolve coffee in boiling water and set aside to cool. In a bowl, mix flour and sugar and rub in butter with hands, until you get a sandy consistency. Add the egg to the cooled coffee and beat with a fork. Add it to the bowl and mix to create a soft dough. Roll about a teaspoon of the dough into a ball. Repeat with the rest of the dough to make about 30 balls and bake them in the pre-heated oven for 15-20 minutes.
Buttercream
Prepare instant coffee, set aside. Mix icing sugar and butter in a bowl, add coffee and beat until its fluffy. Spread the icing between two biscuits.