KOCHI: For Malayalis, biryani is more than just a meal – it’s a celebration. The moment the dum is broken, releasing the heady aroma of perfectly spiced rice and tender meat, it signals the start of something special.
Once reserved for festive occasions, biryani has woven itself into daily life as a comforting treat. In a country like India, biryani has countless regional variations, and Kochi — with its vibrant food scene — offers a melting pot of these flavours.
Whether you crave the subtle heat of Lucknow matka chicken biryani or the rich indulgence of a Thalassery version, there’s a spot in Kochi for every biryani lover. But, what if you could savour several biriyani wonders of the world in one place? Enter Calicut Notebook in Kaloor, where the ‘Kochi Grand Biryani Festival’ offers a chance to indulge in every variety imaginable.
As one enters the restaurant, the aroma of fried onion, saffron, and spiced rice fills the air. Most tables are set with a pot of biryani, with the Lucknow biryani in its earthen pot appearing particularly popular.
The feast is indeed a grand one, featuring 15 iconic biryanis from across India — Hyderabadi chicken biryani, Arakkal kuttan biriyani, Kashmiri veg biryani, Samudra biriyani, Thalassery fish biryani, jhinga biryani, Ambur biryani, bamboo chicken biryani, paneer biryani, Kozhikodan kozhi biryani, and Thuthukudi fish biryani.
Chef Jismon Joy, the mastermind behind this well-curated menu, explains that anyone can make biryani, but it’s the ability to serve something which “touches the heart and soul” that truly matters.
“A lot of thought went into finalising the menu. We carefully selected flavours to appeal to a wide range of tastes. Each biryani is crafted with authentic regional spices and traditional cooking methods to capture the true essence of its origin,” he says.
Jimson insists that I start off sampling two of their signature items — the Lucknow matka biryani and Arakkal kuttan.
I am more intrigued by the latter. The small-grain rice, blended with a masala made of pepper, green chilli, and shallots, delivers a surprising yet balanced explosion of flavour.
“This dish is popular in the Malappuram region. ‘Kuttan’ refers to calf; the tender meat served is veal,” he says. With the yummy tenderness, Arakkal kuttan proves to be a true winner.
Next comes the matka biryani. As the chef breaks the dum, a rich aroma – a heady mix of pistachio, almond, saffron, and rose water – tickles your nostrils. Awadhi cuisine, known for its subtlety, is enriched by these fragrant ingredients.
Not just the rice, even the chunky chicken pieces are infused with the flavours. This one certainly isn’t mild – bland for some Malayalis – as the typical Lucknowi biryani is.
After letting my palate rest for a moment, the chef offers the Ravuthar mutton biryani. To avoid the strong, often off-putting smell of mutton, he uses tender lamb instead. One consistent feature across all the biryanis is the perfectly cooked meat.
Next up is the Malabar chicken ‘kalyana’ biryani. A traditional dish, perfectly dum-cooked, it evokes memories of the rice served on the eve of a wedding. The fried chicken is paired with delicately spiced rice.
After savouring the meat varieties, it was time for another delight, the Samudra biryani, which lives up to its name by showcasing the best of seafood — prawns, squid, and kingfish. The masala, with generous doses of coconut oil and fried onions, offers that ‘thani naadan’ flavour we love.
I can go on gushing about the amazing spread here, but I am struggling to keep my eyes open after one helluva heady meal! Try it, and you would agree.
The biryani fest concludes on 15 November. Dishes are available on food delivery platforms as well.