Muziris musings

TNIE reporter Krishna P S and lensman T P Sooraj explore museums and monuments under the Muziris Heritage Project
Kottappuram Fort
Kottappuram Fort
Updated on
3 min read

KOCHI: Kerala has witnessed one of the greatest archaeological discoveries of our time — the unearthing of the legendary Muziris Port near Kodungallur.

Once a bustling hub of global trade, Muziris was a key player in the ancient spice trade, with merchant vessels bearing the emblems of empires stretching from as far as China, the Arabian lands, Africa, and even Europe frequently gracing its waters. Unsurprisingly, this vibrant port town became a melting pot of cultures. It is even home to India’s first mosque and synagogue, underscoring its rich and diverse heritage.

The Muziris Heritage Project has become a cornerstone of Kerala’s heritage tourism. As we celebrate World Heritage Week (November 19–25), this ancient port town invites visitors to explore its storied past.

One of the mainstays of the project, Paliam Palace was once the headquarters of the prime ministers who served the Cochin kingdom. From its colourful Belgian glass windows to the classic Dutch-style stairways, Kerala’s iconic slanted roofs, and short door frames, the very structure is a wonder to behold!

The Nalukettu in the complex is where women of the Paliam family used to live. A small remnant of a nearly four-kilometre-long escape tunnel is preserved here, beneath the traditional structure.

The Paravoor Synagogue, built by Malabari Jews in 1616 over the ruins of an older synagogue dating back to 1164, is the next main location of the project. With most of its community having migrated, the synagogue is now a tourism site. Nearby is the Chendamangalam Synagogue, constructed in the 14th century and now a museum showcasing Kerala’s Jewish traditions.

Paliam Nalukettu
Paliam Nalukettu

A visit to Kottapuram Fort, or what remains of it, is a must. Once here, one can’t help but revel in the rustic beauty of the place. Cradled on the banks of Periyar, with Chinese nets in the far distance, and a cool evening breeze for company, the fort offers a wonderful respite on a hot day.

“It’s the most strategic location for a port,” says Dr Mithun C Shekhar, tracing the river’s path to the Arabian Sea, demonstrating how goods could be easily transported inland. “This was a bustling port for centuries, from around 500 BC to the 18th century.”

Excavations at Kottapuram, which revealed only a few visible walls in the early 2000s, have since uncovered much of the fort’s structure. Among the findings were human remains — three bodies, one of which is on display during Heritage Week (until November 30).

Close by is the Kottappuram waterfront, a recreational area where visitors can unwind after immersing themselves in history. Other initiatives under the Muziris Heritage Project include an Islamic Heritage Museum at Cheraman Juma Masjid (India’s first mosque), the Thiruvanchikulam Dutch Canal House, and further developments at Kottappuram Fort, including a Temple Museum at Kodungallur.

There is also a hop-on, hop-off boat service offered by Muziris Heritage Project to key destinations, complete with a dedicated guide. One only has to pre-book and then begin the journey.

There is much more to witness here, and an overall trip covering the entire Muziris region will at least take three to four days.

So, why wait? Muziris beckons all with stories of grand wars, intriguing politics, and the grandeur of the spice trade.

Cheraman Juma Masjid
Cheraman Juma Masjid

World Heritage week (nov 19-25)

Programmes

Sancharam

A trip through the heritage sites, including museums, monuments and beaches. College and school students have free entry.

Time: Nov 19 to 25

Nalukettu

A heritage walk for women through Paliam Nalukettu to nearby temples, a handicraft exhibition, and an expo about women and Muziris.

Time: Nov 23, 5pm to 8pm

Memorial Line

An art workshop at Kottappuram Waterfront, including a ghazal performance and a talk show.

Time: Nov 29 to Dec 1

For more details: 04802807717

Boat service

Individual tickets for the Muziris boat service are priced at Rs 660. There are different boat packages set up for various heritage regions such as the Paliam cluster, Chendamangalam cluster, Kottayil Kovilakam cluster, sunset cruise, Jewish life cruise, colonial fort and divine heritage cruise etc, all ranging from Rs 250 to Rs 750 per person.

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