KOCHI: One can discover vestiges of history in every nook and cranny of Mattancherry, a place that brims with lore. Walking along the historical Palace Road here, I came across a tale. A sweet one.
Tucked away in a corner, Shenoy’s Ice Cream Corner isn’t just a dessert shop. It’s a living relic of the region’s food culture. Interestingly, what makes this unassuming, family-run shop special is not ice cream, but homemade custard and lassi.
Founded in 1970 by the late N Padmanabha Shenoy, this charming corner of Mattancherry has weathered the decades with the same recipes and traditions that first earned it a loyal following, despite the advent of new-age dessert trends and big ice cream brands.
Today, Sreekar P Shenoy and his wife Sandhya carry forward the legacy with pride and passion. “My father is my inspiration to continue doing this,” says Sreekar. “The recipes for custard and lassi have remained the same since 1970. Back then, custard was not very familiar to people here. Many in Mattancherry had not even heard of it.”
Sreekar shares a scoop of history as well. During the Emergency period, when business was slow during the day, the shop became a popular post-movie treat destination. “I still remember, we used to keep the shop open until 2am,” he recalls.
“Old cinemas such as Royal Talkies, Sujata, Galaxy, Star, and Sui played a significant role in making the shop a favourite among the locals of Mattancherry.”
Back in 1970, a serving of custard cost just 60 paise. By 1975, the price had risen to Rs 1.25, and by 1995, it was Rs 5. Today, it’s sold at Rs 40.
The custard is creamy, smooth, and sweet – without being cloying. The lassi is thick, with a perfectly balanced flavour – not too sour, not too sweet.
The desserts are prepared fresh daily. “People value our authenticity and quality,” says Sreekar. “Besides plain custard, we also offer cut-fruit variants. The fruits served include papayas, muskmelon, guava, mango, pineapple, and pomegranate.”
From seasoned foodies to first-time tasters, Shenoy’s receives universal praise. “I have been coming to this shop for the past 23 years. The reason I often visit is because the items are of top-notch quality, and the shop is always neat,” says A G Prakash, a custard fan. “I make a stop here whenever I pass through this area.”
Shenoy’s Corner also has stories of customers from faraway places. “There are several NRIs who come here during their home visits,” Sandhya beams.
The only time this shop, which is open from 11am to 9.30pm, shut down was during the pandemic. “Our lives revolve around this shop. The first thing that comes to our minds every morning is the shop,” the couple says.