KOCHI: Mattancherry is like a masala box, with several communities coexisting in harmony. Among them are the vibrant Konkanis, especially the Gowda Saraswath Brahmin community.
The ancestors of this community settled in Kochi about 500 years ago, and introduced their rich traditions and culture. Along with these, they also brought their cuisine to their new-found home.
While there are a few small and large food establishments along the streets of Mattanchery, there is a quaint confectionery store, lesser known to outsiders but a favourite among foodies and high-end hotels.
Vinod Sweets, aka ‘Anneli Angadi’, is situated on Town Hall Road in Koovapadam. One can often see passers-by sipping hot tea from eco-friendly cups or munching on samosas or vadas at the storefront.
At first glance, this small eatery may seem like a mere tea stall. But step in, and it’s a treasure vault for those with a sweet tooth, and a liking for traditional delicacies.
Some of the highlights include pathrodo (a savoury made with rice and coconut), besan laddu, milk peda, puranpoli (a sweet made from dal and jaggery), mando, and ronti (diamond cuts), saatta, Mysore pak, dudhulli, and pathalli, romti, chakkooli (murukku), kukka baalukku (potato chips), kappa ballukku (tapioca chips), and mixture.
“All these are made in authentic Konkani style,” says the shop’s owner Veena Rajesh.
This old shop still employs workers who have been with them for over three decades. “They are experts when it comes to making traditional Konkani sweets and savouries,” says Veena.
Puranpoli or boli was a big hit during Onam. Another favourite is the pathrodo (locally called ‘chembilappam’), served in colocasia leaves.
The shop was originally founded by Veena’s father in 1964. It came to be known as “Anneli Angadi’ (with ‘anna’ meaning brother and ‘angadi’ meaning shop).
Later, Veena’s mother took over the business, who was fondly referred to as the “mill karni” (“mill lady”). “There was a mill adjacent to our shop, owned by our family. She used to work there, and people began calling her ‘mill karni’,” Veena smiles.
Veena continues to run this 60-year-old family business out of passion. “I won’t say ours is a highly profitable business. But that doesn’t stop us from continuing the shop. We want to cherish the legacy,” says Veena.