KOCHI: Onam is a harmonious coming together of people, a time of laughter and shared joy. And at its core lies the sadhya.
Before entering gastronomy, some history. It is believed that ‘Onam’ has existed for centuries, but it was only linked to King Mahabali after the 12th century. According to historian and writer M G Sasibhooshan, until the 12th century, Onam was celebrated as Vamana Jayanthi.
“There are records of Onam being observed during the 9th century, but it was only temple-centric. Only after the 12th century did it become a popular fest, commemorating the return of Mahabali. It remained mostly among the upper sections of society,” he says.
Sasibhooshan endorses the theory proposed by historian M G S Narayanan, which outlines how King Mahabali became the central figure of the Onam festival after the 12th century.
“Historically, lands were controlled by kings, feudal lords, and Brahmins. Agriculturists, known as ‘kaaralars’, were assigned to cultivate these lands. After the harvest, the karalars would bring produce such as plantain, yam, and grains to the landlords,” Sasibhooshan explains.
“This act of offering the harvest was celebrated with a special meal for the karalars, known as Onasadhya. Over time, these cultivators came to be symbolically represented by King Mahabali. That is how he became the central figure of the festival, from the 12th century.”
A traditional sadhya typically includes 16 to 18 dishes, and the process of serving them often leads to debate over the ‘correct’ method. In the book ‘Feast on a Leaf’, chef-turned-writer Arun Kumar T R delves into the intricacies of the traditional spread.
“There is some science and a little bit of Ayurveda involved,” he says. “From a scientific perspective, it’s about texture. Harder items like chips are placed on the left, which is the ‘tongue’ or the narrow end of the leaf. As we move to the right, we serve the thicker curries, and towards the right, broad extreme, thinner curries like olan and pulissery are served.”
From an Ayurvedic standpoint, the arrangement reflects a balance of tastes. “Ayurveda emphasises that a meal should balance all tastes sweet, sour, salty, bitter, pungent, and astringent and this balance is beautifully achieved on the sadhya leaf,” he says.
Here are some snippets of our favourite sadhya dishes:
Avial
The origins of this dish are steeped in legend and tied to the mighty warrior Bhima. According to folklore, during the Pandavas’ exile, Bhima disguised as a cook named Ballava and found himself in the kitchen of King Virata. One afternoon, he didn’t have any dish to serve with rice and was running out of time. He improvised by chopping a variety of vegetables to his finger’s size, boiling them together, and topping the concoction with grated coconut. That was the world’s first aviyal!
A more recent take on the aviyal’s origin dates back to the time of Swati Thirunal. Legend has it that during a feast hosted by the king, there was a shortage of dishes to accompany the rice. To solve this, Irayimman Thampi, a court musician, went to the kitchen and gathered a mix of whatever vegetables he could find. After adding some spices and allowing the mixture to boil, it resulted in a thick, flavorful dish.
“The name ‘aviyal’ is believed to come from the Malayalam word ‘aviyuka’, which means to boil or cook thoroughly. While the origins of aviyal, like many traditional Kerala dishes, are not extensively documented, they are preserved through folklore,” explains P Prakash, writer and president of Changampuzha Samskarika Kendram.
Sambar
This sadhya mainstay traces its origin to the Maratha empire, says historian M.G. Sasibhooshan. “Around 400 years ago, when the Marathas ruled the Tanjore region of Tamil Nadu under King Sambhaji, the son of Shivaji Maharaj,” he elaborates.
“Sambhaji was known for his culinary skills. One day, he took it upon himself to prepare a dal-based dish. He added tamarind for a tangy flavour, creating what we now know as sambar. The dish was named after Sambhaji.”
How did this Maratha dish become popular in Kerala? “By the 19th century, several Raos of Tanjore came to Kerala as diwans. Once settled, they introduced Tanjore cuisine to Kerala, which included sambar,” Sasibhooshan explains.
Kaalan
Kaalan is a dish that Malayalis can proudly claim as their own. “The name ‘kaalan’ is believed to have origins in Sanskrit, though its exact history is not well-documented,” says ace sadhya chef Pazhayidom Mohanan Namboothiri.
“The dish varies in preparation across Kerala. In Thiruvananthapuram and the southern regions, kaalan is made with a thin, curry-like consistency and is sometimes referred to as ‘neetiya pulissery’. In central Travancore, it becomes thicker, while in the northern regions, it thickens even more, often taking on a paste-like texture.”
Olan
Another dish that is distinctly Kerala’s is olan. “It is used to balance the sour and tangy flavours of kaalan and pulissery. The preparation of olan varies across Kerala,” says Pazhayidom.
“In the northern regions, it has a clear consistency and is made primarily with ash gourd, with coconut oil and minimal salt. In central Travancore and the southern parts, olan takes on a richer form, resembling a stew with ash gourd, pumpkin, and red gram mixed with coconut milk.”
Ishtu
The name is derived from the western stew. It’s made of boiled potatoes, coconut milk and green chillies. It is believed that the dish originated after the Portuguese introduced potatoes to the region in the 16th century.
Pappadam
Some food historians believe the papad dates back to 500 BC. However, what Malayalis relish as the ‘Kerala pappadam’ arrived here in the 16th century. “Along with the Gowda Saraswat Brahmins, the Kudumbi community from the Konkan region migrated to Kerala. It is believed that Kudumbis introduced pappadam to Malayalais,” says Sasibhooshan.
Erissery
The dish has its roots in Kerala, and its name reflects its unique cooking style. “The word ‘erissery’ is derived from the process used in its preparation,” says Pazhayidom. “The coconut is fried and then added to the dish, creating what is known as an ‘ericha kari (curry)’ or ‘burnt gravy’. Over time, this name evolved into ‘erissery’.”
Inji-puli/ inji-thairu
Inji-puli is a tangy-sour dish made of ginger, tamarind and jaggery. It is believed to have originated in Tamil Nadu, and later entered Kerala.
A local ginger dish is the inji-thairu, which is made of ginger, curd, green chilli, and curry leaves. “Inji-thairu is considered as a food of gods because the taste is just out of the world, and it has immense health benefits,” says Arun.
Pazhayidom notes that inji-thairu is said to be “equivalent to a 100 curries”. “This is mainly because of its goodness. The dish has medicinal properties and it can also increase the count of red blood cells,” he says.
Payasam
The term ‘payasam’ is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘payas’, which means milk. Payasa initially referred to milk-based desserts.
Some believe the Buddhists and Jainists popularised ‘payasa’ in Kerala. Another legend says it was Lord Krishna himself who introduced ‘paal payasam’ in Kerala.
Krishna, disguised as a sage, challenged an erstwhile king of Ambalapuzha to a game of ‘chaturanga’ (ancient chess). The prize, the sage said, would be one grain of rice on the first square of the chessboard, two on the second and so on. The king lost. Realising that his whole whole granary would not suffice. The sage then instructed him to honour the bet by providing ‘paal payasam’ to devotees arriving at the Ambalapuzha Sri Krishna Temple.