It is that time of year when glittering blues make the waters off Kochi’s coastal villages shimmer under the dark cloak of night.
The ripples off areas such as Kumbalangi, Chellanam and Puthuvype exude an ethereal charm. For common eyes, it’s nothing short of magic.
Visitors from far and wide have been heading to Kumbalangi, where aquatic microorganisms sprinkle their radiant sorcery. The vibe is almost like Munnar when blanketed by neelakurinji bloom season.
“All thanks to the film Kumbalangi Nights,” laughs Midon P G, who runs Luminescence Water Sports in Kumbalangi.
“Before that, foreign tourists who came to Kumbalangi used to enjoy this phenomenon — bioluminescence, or 'kavaru' in local parlance. They would play in our waters, enjoy the nights here, take photos, and experience the facilities. But locals and those from outside these areas came to know about kavaru through the film and subsequent social media buzz.”
Since 2019, after the film’s release, Kumbalangi has indeed seen an exponential rise in visitors during the summer kavaru season. “It’s mainly night tourism,” says Midon.
Kavaru has become the hallmark of this quaint little village. While, a few years ago, local residents complained about sleepless nights and damaged pisciculture farms, they have now started exploring the tourism potential of the kavaru season.
Midon says the phenomenon is not exclusive to Kumbalangi. “Usually, kavaru appears first in the nearby waters of Kandakkadavu. Chellanam, Kadamakudi, and even the coastal villages along the Alappuzha-Kochi border experience bioluminescence every year,” he explains.
However, there’s no denying that kavaru has truly transformed the tourism potential of Kumbalangi. Restaurants stay open late, homestays are thriving, and activities like water sports and night boating are booming.
The local community acknowledges that business is flourishing, even if the surge in tourism also brings challenges — especially for the pisciculture farms, where the saline waters provide a perfect home for the shimmering algae.
Edwin Joseph, who runs Kayakify Kochi, a watersports service in Kumbalangi, started night boating last year.
“After Kumbalangi Nights, thousands of people started coming here at night to witness the blue waters,” he gushes.
“But this effect is only visible when the water ripples. So people started throwing stones and even jumping into the prawn farms, causing damage to the natural ecosystem. That’s why I thought of starting night kayaking at designated spots.”
Edwin explains that paddling helps the fish grow by increasing oxygen levels in the water. “We request guests to play only in designated spots. Just don’t jump into all the farms,” he adds.
Coracles have also apparently become a favourite among visitors. When gently shaken, they create a mesmerising view of the kavaru.
According to Edwin, the kavaru season is when Kumbalangi’s tourism prospects peak. Homestays, resorts and restaurants are doing brisk business. Some local residents have also set up ice cream stalls and refreshment kiosks to cash in on the mojo.
“Kavaru certainly boosts the local economy,” says Edwin, who also runs Kampify Kochi, under which there is a resort, hostel, and farmhouse service.
Local residents hope the kavaru season will continue till May. “It arrived a bit early this time. The bloom usually lasts three months,” Edwin says. “It’s a good time for the hospitality business, which otherwise sees a downturn in summer.”
Need for a proper tourism plan
But not everything is bright and blue here. Satheesan V R, who runs Kumbalangi Nights restaurant, points to the accumulating waste along the coastal road.
“Yes, it’s great that visitors are thronging here, enjoying our food, and spending time in the village. But after they leave, we residents are left to clean up the roads,” he says.
Satheesan and other local residents have been raising concerns about the mounting garbage problem for the past few years. “The garbage issue is ever-present but worsens during the kavaru season,” he adds.
“What we need is a well-structured tourism programme involving local bodies. This will also help visitors track the spots where they can witness bioluminescence, as these spots change daily.”
Satheesan suggests that the District Tourism Promotion Council and the local administration collaborate to create a proper seasonal tourism plan for Kumbalangi. “To preserve the natural bounty, we all need to work together,” he says.
“We cannot ask visitors to avoid eating or drinking bottled water, but we can provide bins for proper waste disposal. If needed, authorities could charge a nominal fee of, say, Rs 20 from each visitor for the Haritha Karma Sena.”
Satheesan adds that the local community should also feel a similar thrill as the tourists. “It’s nice to see people admiring our village. But for this to continue in a healthy, sustainable manner, the government has to play a proactive role,” he says.
What is ‘kavaru’?
In simple terms, it’s nature’s magic. However, as per science, the magical glow is due to microorganisms and algae.
“This phenomenon occurs when the salinity of water increases,” explains Shelton Padua, senior scientist at the Central Marine Fisheries Research Institute. “These blooms typically appear in Kerala during March and April.”
When disturbed, these microorganisms emit light, creating the sparkling blue glow seen in the water. Shelton and his team have been studying water samples from the area for the past two years.
“Last year, and in the recent samples we collected, the algae responsible for the bioluminescence was identified as Gonyaulax spinifera,” he says.
On concerns regarding toxicity of the algae, Shelton says, “In our research, we didn’t find any harmful toxins.”
Bioluminescence in Kochi waters is not a new phenomenon, he adds. “I remember marvelling at kavaru in coastal villages in my childhood,” he says.