The hilltop where gods hid their ‘gold’

'Keralathile Sthala Charithrangal: Thiruvananthapuram Jilla', by V V K Valath, hints at a historical connection between Malayattoor and Ponmudi.
Ponmudi hills
Ponmudi hillsPhoto | Express

THIRUVANANTHAPURAM : At 900 metres above sea level, Ponmudi, tucked away in Peringammala village, offers a welcome respite from the summer heat. The peak, nestled in the Western Ghats mountain range, is just 62 kilometres from the Thiruvananthapuram city.

According to 'Keralathile Sthala Charithrangal: Thiruvananthapuram Jilla', by V V K Valath, this ‘sanatorium’ for the mind and body was once a hub of Buddhism and Jainism, and owes its name to Ponnuyir Nathan, another name for Buddha. The book also hints at a historical connection between Malayattoor and Ponmudi.

“The ponmala in Malayattoor in Ernakulam holds the same significance as Ponmudi in Nedumangadu taluk. What is today a Christian church in Malayattoor was once a sacred site for Buddhists,” the book reads.

Furthermore, the transition of people from Buddhism to Christianity brought about significant changes, including alterations to their mottos.

“The inclusion of the word cross marked a significant shift in religious identity, as evident in their new motto: Ponin kurishu muthappo, ponmala kettam.”

Ponmudi means golden peak or crest of gold and stands at a higher altitude than Malayattoor.

According to the folklore of the native Kani tribals, the mountains are protected by gods. They believed that gods hid gold in the hill’s crest, thus giving it the name Ponmudi.

Historian Vellanad Ramachandran says that the name Ponmudi might have come from the old Buddhist communities that lived there long ago.

He explains, “There are signs that Buddhists once lived in Ponmudi and nearby Agasthyakoodam. When Hiuen Tsang journeyed to south India, he documented the accounts of decaying Buddhist temples. In the ancient book Manimekalai from the 6th or 7th century, Chithalai Chathanar also mentions Buddhist monasteries near Agasthyakoodam.”

“Mudi means the highest point, like a tall mountain peak. So it is likely that Ponmudi is the highest spot where Ponnuyir Nathan lived. Not necessarily meaning Buddha himself, but perhaps a name known to Buddhist monks,” Ramachandran clarifies.

He further notes that during the reign of Visakham Thirunal Rama Varma, a rest house palace was constructed in Ponmudi, attracting visits from monarchs of various regions. However, the palace no longer stands today.

Later, foreign settlers built beautiful bungalows on the hilltop. At that time, the place was celebrated for its tea leaves.

The mention of Ponmudi in historical texts like Visakhavijayam and Garuda Sandesham is evidence of its historical significance. Today, it is a popular getaway destination for the city folks.

What’s in a name

Weekly column on the history of place names. Got any suggestions? Write to xpresstpuram@gmail.com

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