There are dinners one eats, and then there are evenings one feels — slow, lingering, and entrenched in memory. The ‘Taste of Travancore’ food festival at The Leela Kovalam is one such experience.
Located on a hill by the Arabian Sea, The Terrace at The Leela appears to ‘float’ between the sky and ocean. It’s not just about the food on your plate, but about the whole experience — food that feels like home, the grace of oil lamps flickering over brass urulis, classical music and percussion performances in the background, and the sea waves whispering ancient secrets.
The festival, running from June 20 to 26, is a tribute to this land. The hotel’s general manager, Ayyappan Nallaperumal, says, “As our first major culinary celebration of the year, we wanted to keep it truly rooted in home, celebrating the flavours of Travancore, sourcing fresh produce from our garden, Aaramam, and honouring the traditions of this coastline that has inspired generations of cuisine. It is our way of giving back to the city, with a table set in its honour.”
At one glance, it is a journey through the flavours of the historic Travancore kingdom, stretching from Kanyakumari to Alappuzha.
South Indian specialty sous chef Vijeesh Vilappil, who has curated the fest, shares, “We spent nearly four months researching traditional recipes, regional influences, and indigenous ingredients. Our aim was to trace the roots of each dish from palace kitchens and coastal households to temple feasts and Syrian Christian homes and recreate them with authenticity and precision. For that, I travelled across the region, learning directly from its people. Every element on the menu reflects that journey.”
The buffet begins with a welcome drink that sets the tone — a refreshing watermelon and coconut milk concoction, with a bite of ginger that resets your senses.
Next, the Muringa Soup — a green broth that packs a punch. The mild sweetness of moringa blends perfectly with sautéed shallots. For those who prefer non-vegetarian options, there are also options such as crab soup and many more.
Then come some lip-smacking dishes that speak of a place, a coast, and traditions passed down through generations. I first check out the Chemmeen Paniyaram, a surprise from the coastal Tamil belt. It is our beloved unniyappam with a burst of prawn masala. Yum.
Next, the Tapioca Vada is crunchy and satisfying, spiced just enough to awaken the palate, while the Kanthari Chicken delivers that signature green chili heat.
The main course features matta rice with Meen Mulakittathu. The gravy, I must say, makes one lick fingers. Next is the legendary Karimeen Pollichathu. It is smoky, soft, and fragrant with shallots, curry leaves, and pepper.
And of course, there is the porotta, served with slow-roasted beef, speckled with fried coconut slivers, black pepper, and curry leaves. Meat-eaters will certainly ask for a second serving.
The grand finale is dessert, with a twist. The Vazhapoo Payasam (made of plantain flower) is served warm, along with a thick, luscious pudding made with coconut milk, presented in a coconut shell — a perfect representation of the festival’s theme.
There are many more dishes on the menu, yet nothing feels heavy, even after multiple courses. The evening stays true to the Kerala palate while elevating it with polish and poise.
The menu changes daily, offering equal attention to both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options.
Cost: Rs 2,495 per person. The fest concludes on June 26.
For reservation: 7510593109