For self-taught designer Gaurang Shah, who specialises in Jamdani weaves, saris will always remain his first love. The Hyderabad-based designer, who owes it to his parents for instilling in him a love for all things traditional, works with weavers from across India, including Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu, Uttar Pradesh, Gujarat, Rajasthan, and West Bengal. His clothes are worn by celebrities, including Vidya Balan and Sonam K Ahuja. Here talks about his latest Paithani collection and why he doesn’t believe in sartorial trends. Excerpts:
Tell us about your latest collection?
My latest collection will be all about the new Paithani that just arrived from our looms and they are spectacular.
The saris are in alluring colours. There are chocolate brown saris with gold zari weft with sunflowers. We will also reveal a violet warp with gold zari weft, and pink roses and navy blue with silver weft. Such Paithani saris have never been imagined before. Besides that, the eternal Jamdani weaves will also be available in our stores in varied colours, motifs, along with a wide range of choices from saris to outfits, to mix and match.
What are the colours, styles and cuts that are trending this summer?
This season, pastels and bright tones from mild yellow and mint green to deeper hues are in. Textures that are attracting a lot of attention are silk, khadi, organza and heirloom textiles like Banarasi, Kanchi, Uppada, and Paithani.
Any fashion tips?
Choose Indian wear. People will love to see you draped in attention-grabbing saris like organza with a border in silk, and muga and a pallu in satin that has different textures. You can also go for designer embellishments juxtaposed in different borders using varying yarn textures effectively.
Try traditional Kanjeevaram saris, which have nice drapes, liberal use of gold zari, deep jewel tone colours as well as contrasting borders. Also go for a floor-length anarkali, lehengas, and ghagras with well-designed kurtis and cholis.
Internationally, what is the current trend?
Being organic and natural is the in-thing. Despite a leaning towards Western wear, the sari appeal continues to grow.
What trends should a fashion conscious person avoid or follow this year?
I never recommend people to follow trends. Understanding your inner self, body silhouette and personality helps a lot in picking up the right piece. Be a trendsetter. Saris are classics. Trends will come and go, but a piece of the woven sari is timeless, a heritage handed down through generations.
Who do you think are the most stylish actors and why?
Vidya Balan and Kirron Kher are outstanding ambassadors of Indian jamdani saris. Both these fine actors have made the sari their signature outfit. For the modern-day Jamdani Indian wear, Sonam Kapoor Ahuja is an icon.
What are your plans for the Fall/Winter collection this year? Last year, it had brocade and was opulent and traditional yet understated. How will it be this year?
It’s still in the concept stage, but as always, we will present unseen jamdani weaves on the ramp.
Any wardrobe must-haves for women?
A jamdani sari is a must-have. You can combine kota with jamdani weaves and chikankari embroidery, to create a picture-perfect look! Muted tones of browns and military greens suit the Indian skin tone. Go for a black kota with multi-coloured jamdani — it is a showstopper.
You collaborated with the Raja Ravi Varma Foundation and reproduced his paintings on jamdani weaves. Before that, it was Laxman Aelay. Any future plans to weave paintings of other artists on saris?
Right now, I am immersed in accomplishing the Raja Ravi Varma project and translating his 30 paintings using Jamdani weaves into saris. These saris will be divided into three collections: women, godly figures and the stories of Raja Ravi Varma. It takes a lot of research, intensity and conviction from weavers to transform a great work of painting in jamdani weave.