Last December, Karl Lagerfeld sent his models wearing maang tikkas and turbans down the runway at Chanel’s Metiers d’art in Paris. Two months ago, Jean Paul Gaulier’s Spring Summer menswear collection had models in sikh-styled turbans. From cosmetic products like Clarins’ Holi inspired line and Bombay Express de Chanel to fashion shows, India continues to play muse. Vera Wang took inspiration from our first Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru at the New York Fashion Week (NYFW) and Matthew Williamson showcased Holi-inspired dresses at the London Fashion Week (LFW). We take a look at how some influential fashion houses translated their love for India into dresses and accessories.
Holi it is London’s Williamson made sure that along with the clothes, the ambience exuded Indianness. The ceiling, decorated with garlands and pretty glass bulbs, created the Indian night market vibe. His 15th anniversary show had the colours and celebratory spirit of the Holi Festival — the digital prints on the dresses looked like a fluid mix of varied colours. Besides silk shirts in orange, caramel and fuchsia, there were shirts, tunic dresses and shorts with a hint of Rajasthani print.
Skirt turned ghagra
1960’s India came alive in Marchesa’s spring summer collection. The designer duo Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig went ornate at NYFW. The eight- year- old womenswear brand, featured slim-cut capris and a chartreuse sari shift decorated with gold and pearls. There were elaborate cholis with sheer ghagras and maxi dresses with an embroidered bustline.
Nehru in the jacket
Known for her haute couture wedding gowns, Vera Wang’s Nehruinspired collection saw the politician’s signature collars and jackets. Wang also implemented Indian flavour with delicate sheers and bejeweled waists in a rainbow of colours, from indigo to gold. Before the show began, Wang reportedly addressed the crowd saying that her collection blended the discipline of Indian men’s clothing with the femininity of Indian women. She also maintained that her collection is beyond the conventional saris and Bollywood.
Stamp collector
Mary Katrantzou’s latest collection presented unique prints - think postage stamps and bank notes. The young designer, who has pioneered innovative concepts of digital printing, reportedly collected stamps from India, Venezuela, Mongolia and Finland. We love how she had embossed an ‘India postage’ stamp on a chic full-sleeved dress.
Crossing Ganges
“It’s a cliché to love the colours of India, but they’re amazing,” said Peter Pilotto in a recent interview. Inspired by Indian textiles, his collect ion at London Fashion Week, featured slim skirts and high waisted peplum tops with intricate beadwork and classic Indian mirrors. They were turned into squares with black stitch overlay. Designer duo Christopher De Vos and Peter Pilotto reportedly crossed the Ganges every morning, to check the compatibility of beadwork with base fabrics and colours.
Regal stitch
A few designers, like Netherlands-born Michael Van Der Ham’s collection at LFW had sleeveless and peplum tops with intricate embroidery from India. Rodarte’s tulle dresses with embroidered hem slightly hinted at Indian inspiration, while Tory Burch’s vagabond inspired was accessorised with bags embroidered with classic Indian mirrors.