CHENNAI: She is one of the most sought-after fashion designers in the Indian industry and her label, Taika, is synonymous with glamour, bright colours and bold patterns.
Poonam Bhagat, with her new collection Romance with the Mughals in the city, calls them Mughal-inspired silhouettes. You can find vibrant choghas with brocade hemlines, floral motifs, layered and dressed up with panel skirts and printed chanderis in her collection. “Chanderis are perfect for the Chennai weather. The crowd here has always been tasteful and most don’t like over-the-top bling,” shares Poonam.
A lot of research was done to attain perfection in Mughal designs and motifs, she says, “I researched about the Mughals of the 17th and 18th centuries, read books and also visited museums which had archived old textiles. There aren’t many photographs of such classic clothing. So, I also had to look through miniature paintings.”
Her collection, she says has the ability to create illusions! “The Peshwaz which are churi-sleeved and weaved in gossamer, are layered over each other to create the illusion of both translucence and opaque,” says the designer.
She started her career in 1991 and states that we are going back in time when it comes to fashion. “I have been in the industry for 25 years and I started with the Jodhpuri Pyjamas and tunics. Now, that’s back in vogue! Fashion is like a cycle and we are going back to the classic Indian wear,” says the designer who insists on using natural fabrics.
Poonam recollects how she used to sketch designs of international brands as a child. “I was 13 years old and we didn’t have access to fashion magazines during the 70’s. So whenever some relative or my father travelled abroad, I would ask them to get me magazines. I would sketch a lot of designs and I think I was always a fashion-oriented person,” says the psychology graduate.
What has changed in fashion? “A lot of youngsters are moving toward western dresses and attire while the older generation holds on to classic and traditional wear. We need to revive traditional wear,” she adds.
Whether it’s casual or formal, she points out that the young generation prefers fits and shape-inducing cuts.
“I cater to the young in classical-Indian-bridal look and they prefer a nice shape cut piece. In this particular collection, there are a lot of anarkalis that flare out and are paired with skirts. This gives a nice young and chic look,” she explains.
Planning a completely contrasting theme for her next collection, she says that it will be more casual, asymmetrical and will have prints developed by her. “I love Japanese fashion designers and love to read Vogue, Cosmopolitan, Elle and every other magazine to keep myself updated. My next will have more fusion-based designs and will be contemporary,” says Poonam, whose designs have been featured in Elle and Marie Claire.