HYDERABAD: Delhi, also known as Dehli, and everything associated with it as Dehlavi or Delhnavi. A place where the confluence of various cultures has birthed its own distinct identity. One could find variations in a single spoken sentence and even in the manner one introduces oneself.
When it comes to food, the city, whose streets have been host to several communities in different time periods, boasts of an equally diverse cultural intermixing. Reminiscent of this diverse history and culture of the city, ITC Kohenur has brought in a range of delicacies belonging to three different communities that have been part of the cultural diversity of the city: Kayasthas, Vaishnavas and Mughals.
The four-day Dehlnavi trail dinner pop-up in Hyderabad can be enjoyed at ITC Kohenur in its renowned restaurant Golconda Pavilion till July 16. The culinary showcase is led by cuisine authority Chef Raees from ITC Maurya, Delhi.
To begin with, we were presented tangy Kulle Ki Chaat (Scooped fruits filled with chickpea paste with added masala), Dahi Gujiya (Urad dal batter topped with curd and chutneys) and Raj Kachori (typical kachori with bhalla and papdi and spiced up with sev). Chef Shivneet Pohoja explained the relevance of ‘Saunth Ki Chutney’ extensively used in chaats in Delhi.
In drinks, we were lovefully presented with Mohabbat Ka Sherbet, typical of old Delhi streets.
For starters, we had Tulsi Gulab ke Kababs, as soft and delicate as the ingredients: rose petals and basil. Bhe Ke Kebab, made from lotus stem and potatoes with added garam masala, for a little spice. To complete the Dilwali Dilli feel, we had Dilli Fish Fry and Purani Dilli Fried Chicken.
For the main course, we had perfectly cooked Dilli ki Nehari and Dilli Ka Butter Chicken, as heavy as they are supposed to be, befitting the Mughal elegance with their luscious gravy and velvety texture. The Nehari was supported by Sarai ki Gosht Biryani, too irresistible and heavenly reminiscent of 19th century Delhi.
The vegetarian dishes were more dominant on the menu, the best being Palak Rehani, which was spinach and basil puree scented with garlic. It was accompanied by Dal Dehlnavi, served with a crisp Khamiri roti. The creamy thick-textured dal certainly reminded us of the winters in Delhi. Nimona Pulao, with matar stuffed inside the salan mirchis, served as a great combination.
Matar paneer Naize, perfect with its pine nuts, had to be the most elegant presence on the menu. However, Chatpate Soya Charra could be an easy substitute for meat for vegetarians, giving weight and fibre as well as keeping simplicity intact. Kunni dal was our favourite, slow-cooked on a gentle flame with a blend of Bengal gram and black lentils and infused with a handful of secret spices and a hint of garlic.
Not to forget the different varieties of bread, one could hardly miss out on methi parantha, which reminded us of home. The menu also supported aloo-anardana parantha, matar parantha, gobhi adrak parantha and more.
The dessert platter introduced us to Khurchan, which literally means milk scrapings, relished with sugar and rose water and of course, gulab jamun. Unforgettable was Motiya Zarda, sweet rice prepared with sugar, spices, saffron and dry fruits. Barf Ki Haandi undoubtedly took us back to childhood.